Materials:
Double sided tape
Time: 5minutes

Unscrew the bottom nuts

Move the license plate to the right so the left side of the license plate is on the right hole. Screw the left side of the license plate.

Screw in the left side of the plate and apply double sided tape on the other.

Your done!

Heres what I made for myself.

Put headlight in oven for 10-15 mins at 200degs.

Then take the headlight out and start to pry open the end farthest away from the turn signal with a flat head screw driver. Pry open until there is enough to get your hands in then gently separate the res of the headlight apart. Be careful not to break any clips that are down near the turn signal side.

STEP 2: Removing trim

Once apart you can now work on getting out the headlight trim. There are a few reasons to remove this, whether it is to black-out the trim or changing the color of the reflectors. I already have my headlights blacked out, as you can see, so I will be able to skip that part. However I am going to swap my clear reflectors for the orange reflectors I have from my OEM headlights.

Before you can take out the trim you first must unscrew two screws that hold it in place.

Also there may, and prob will, be some glue on the inside of the housing preventing you from easily removing the trim. To defeat this problem get your screw driver and pull out/off the glue from the trim.

Once the glue has been separated from all the edges you can now separate the trim from the lens. To do this first pull the trim up from the end farthest away from the turn signal.

Now I had some of the glue stick to the trim, so to clean it up I took some Goo Gone to take it off. If you do this you need to be quick to apply and quick to remove the goo gone. Not only will it take off the glue, it will also take the paint off.

Once the trim Is taken out you can now work on getting the reflectors changed. In order to get them swapped out you will need to sand down a little on them.

After you get it sanded down you can go ahead and put the trim back in reverse order of how it was taken out.

STEP 3: Removing Reflector

This is a simple step but still needs to be done carefully! To get the reflector out all you need to do is unscrew the reflector from the housing. Unscrew the two screws (highlighted in red) then turn the high beam screw counter clockwise.

Once you have the reflector removed tape it up and get it ready for the retro!

I spent the rest of the night getting the projector lined up and fitted for just one headlight…..I need to pick up some shrouds to clean everything up (yet something else to buy on the build….)

I just picked up there shrouds….More work will be done once I receive the shrouds!

So I spent over a month waiting on a fellow accord owner to finish my harness…and I received it yesterday. I didn’t work anymore on my retro as I was making sure the x,y,z angles were right to finish the retro. Thus without the harness I couldnt test the lights to see if i had angled everything correctly.

Here are some pics of my harness:

Here is the harness:

Once I looked at it closer I noticed that the pars were not sealed properly….that down the road moisture would have its way with the harness.

If you look at the connections you can see the liquid electrical glue that i used to seal the openings…..

I still have to wire up the lights and see how the angles are. then i can continue the progress!

I just did quick test of the light and everything looks to be in working order and level!

I finished putting together the 2nd headlight! Tomorrow I plan on installing them on the car and checking everything for levelness then they will be sealed up!

well I wired up the car today, went to turn the lights on and blew a fuse…I tried again and the same fuse went…then again….so now im a little puzzled as it worked yesterday but now its not…

Here are a few pics of the install…note the covers are not on the car as I WAS going to test the lights tonight to see if they were level but that is not going to happen now….

Well after talking to some ppl I have found out that my harness was made incorrectly. I either need to add more fuses to it or get a totally new one form someone else…. So while I was waiting to figure that out I sealed up my ballast and redid SOME of the harness.

GOD DAMNIT!!!! I got new fuses and tested it out again….i blew boh of my ballast….$415 to get new ones!!! **** ME!

A little update:

I was able to find the same ballast online for $99 shipped so I will see if they were worth the money when they get here, meaning I dont know for sure if they will work…ebay….

I added fuse holders to both of the positive leads to the ballasts. I saudered the ends and taped everything up very well. I also extended the grounds on the back of the ignitors along with adding the liquid electrical tape to the back of them so they are protected in case of contact with any other metal objects in the engine bay.

I havent been able to get into my mail as my mac crashed (thus the reason this update has no pics…)on me Sat and the online log-in isnt working correctly. So im not sure when I will receive the other ballast to continue the DIY, .

pics:

well today I worked on the setup a little more…I finished re-running all the wires and have test fit the ballasts in prep for the new ones so once i get them I can get back on track with the retro…im HOPING to have it done by friday!!! that is if i get the ballasts tomorrow…

I received the ballasts 3 days later…..the guy sold me fried ballasts! damnit!

I have just finished my bezels and am one step closer to finishing!
Im now in need of some chrome spray as the chrome has came off the bezels that i just fitted to my lights to cover up the projectors.

well i tested out the paint…..now what…

im not sure if i like this color. Im prob going to go back to home depot tomorrow and get a different color.

Well I took apart the headlight (left side) last night and fixed my problem, resealed them up and and installed them today. I washed the car yesterday which was the first wash it has had in 3 months!!! Once I got the light installed I went out on a photo shoot! ENJOY! If I don’t go and do anything tonight I’ll have some pics up from night time

Ohh and on a final note I took the orange reflectors out and swapped in the clear one….they will look better now and when ever I get around to painting the car. (another color…shhh)

I just went out and took pics of the cut off. I wasnt on level ground and still need to be adjust some more. but you get an idea on what it looks like.

First i disconnected the wire leading to the brake light.

Second i pushed up on the clips to simply free the lamp housing from its place, then i removed it from inside the cabin.

Third I removed the lightbulb, to make sure it wouldnt break and then pulled back on the clips near the center of the arc to remove the lamp from the housing.

Fourth I used scotch tape to tape off the “leather” from the plastic as a prep for the next step of saran wrapping all that i didnt want to get painted (i used tape to hold this down as well.

Sixth step was to take it outside, clean it with soap and put it onto a trash bag for painting.

Then i laid down a two coats of spray waiting 10 minutes between each coat and then 20 minutes after the last so it would dry to touch.

^^^^^ Final Product and how it looks now inside the car^^^^

I have found a remedy to this problem, so both sides of the trunk are at an even closure and flush with the outer taillights.

Tools required:
10mm socket and wrench

Parts required:
None

Time required:
5 minutes at most

Process:
1) Determine which side needs to fit more snug to the frame of the car. Open the trunk.

2) Use the ratchet to loosen the two bolts on the trunk loop pictured:

3) With the bolts loosened, press down on the loop to bring it to its lowest position, and retighten the bolts.

4) Close your trunk. Even with the loop set at the lowest position, the trunk does close, but a little force may be required. If you are okay with slamming your trunk then leave it. If you want a little less force to lock it, then adjust the loop just a little up (to personal preference), which is what I did. I don’t need to slam the trunk now, but it doesn’t close loosely upon letting go of it like it used to. I am okay with this since it fixed my problem. Just tweak around with the height of the loop until your closing preference is met.

5) You may notice that the taillights are still not exactly flush, like the problem was in my case. Now, with the trunk open, gently bend the needed side down (right side for me), while maintaining the open trunk and the opposite side in one position. There is no need to go wild, since you may warp the trunk completely and make another problem. The trunk is springy, so a few forceful bends will make it stay where you want it.

6) When you have done this, you are finished. Your trunk should now be flush. The results for me were as pictured:

7) Upon a suggestion from a fellow member, I decided to check out the rubber knobs which are attached to the trunk and found two adjustable knobs – one on each side of the trunk. I immediately adjusted them to their lowest setting. This hasn’t made a visible difference to the closure of my trunk, but it adjusts the ease with which closure occurs – mine closes upon “dropping” of the trunk freely now, like it did before, and the lights are flush. See below:

Taking some time to figure this out really helped me. I guess taillights being not flush isn’t that big of a deal, but it really bothered me and made my car look funny.

First off this is what my headlights look liked.

And from another angle

The only supplies you need is a good cordless drill, a terry cloth, and the cleaner and buffer. I got 3m Plastic Cleaner and Polish, each bottle was $9.99, for the buffer I got one of them Mothers Powerball Buffers.
I got all the supplies from: Autogeek.net
Here is a pic of the supplies.

First apply the cleaner with the terry cloth, I rubbed it in a circular motion until I had rubbed it dry. Took about two minutes per light to clean them. After they were cleaned, I put some of the polish on the buffer and with light pressure I buffer again in a circular motion. After the polish was all buffed in, it looked like it could use a tad more, so I did it again. The whole thing only took 15 minutes. It made a 100% improvement.

Hope this helps!

Tools needed: Ratchet & socket set. Hacksaw
Parts needed: Prothane part #85-97830, or Energy suspension swaybar bushings for a 1 1/16″ bar.

Difficulty: 1 outta 10

Time: 15 minutes

What is it:

It shortens the forward and back throw of the manual shifter.

What good is it for our cars:

It just makes the car that much more fun to drive.

Parts Needed:

(1) 1/2″ Split Ring Hanger

(1) 3/8-16 x 1″ hex bolt

(1) 10-24 x 1-1/2″ screw

(1) rubber bushing (Optional)

washers to hold bushing on

Tools Needed:
Screwdriver that fits your new screw you bought
Crescent wrench

1. unscrew the shift knob

2. Remove the cupholder

3. remove the top part of the center console area

4. now look down at the 2 shifter cables. you want the one on the right side (the one on the shaft)

5. unscrew the nut off the bolt. slide off the cable

6. now onto the actual short shifter. open the hanger package up

7. line up the hanger as you would install it on the shifter, like so

8. take off the top screw on the hanger. you will use the new screws you bought instead. put new screw on temporary

9. take out one 3/8″ bolt out of the package and screw it into the open hole partways

10. slide the almost formed short shifter onto the shifter. slide it all the way down

11. place onto the new screw your washers and then the shifter cable bushings

12. tighten up the front screw partway, then the rear

13. tighten up fully. you don’t want the short shifter or cable to fall off.

14. tighten up the big bolt onto the shifter. make sure its on really tight so you dont have it sliding on you. DO NOT TIGHTEN TOO TIGHT OR IT WILL BREAK!

15. Test out the shifter to see if there is any resistance on the cables.

16. reinstall everything and go for a test drive

here are some vertical shots of neutral, third gear and fourth gear

My new total throwing distance is about 3 3/8″

Take the car out for a spin, and WOT the baby on the highway to clear out any leftover carbon from the engine. you should feel results in power, torq. and gas mileage

****EDIT****

Click here for seafoam informative link

To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.

To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system.

Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system.

Performing a Sea Foam Engine Treatment on a Fuel Injected Engine

Begin by parking the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Locate a vacuum line that you are certain DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. On many vehicles the easiest option is taking the vacuum line from your brake booster PCV. (See notes about special situations such as the Vortex or Subaru H style engines.) If you are not certain, contact a certified technician.

Start the engine. For automatic transmissions, keep the car in PARK. For manual transmissions, put the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ½ can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the vacuum hose, while at the same time revving the engine to about 2000 RPMs. You will begin to see clouds of white exhaust from the tailpipes. When you have finished pouring, turn off the engine and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.

Now start the vehicle again. Drive it aggressively (but legally) for about 2 to 5 miles or until the white smoke is no longer being produced.