first start off by removing your fog lights.
it’s just one screw right in the front and a clip in the back.

pop your hood and take a look at my picture.
pop all these tabs off with a screw driver. i have
circled everything to make it easy.

if you noticed two of the clips are a different color.
this is because two of my clips are longer.
they yellow ones are longer and the red ones
are shorter.

now i jacked up the car and put it on jack stands. this
makes the whole process easy to me since my car is lowered.
don’t forget to put on the E brake.

now that we have the car in the air start taking out all the clips
on the bottom engine cover and half of your fender well.

and for the fender well repeat on the other side also.

now your plastic engine cover from under should be gone and
your fenders should look like this.

before we forget lets go back to the top of the car
and take off all the plugs for the bulbs to the headlights.
i took off the whole thing with the bulb. makes it easy.

while we are up here take off these headlight bolts. 10mm

after you take those 2 off on each side. there is 2 more on
each side right here.
they are located right behind the grill.

all this should get your front end almost off by now.

now your bumper is almost ready to come off.
if you have a spare set of hands around get
ready to call them. this makes it alot easier.

on each side of the car under the fender you will
see one screw.
you kind of have to look up and towards the front
of the car and you will see it. now take both of them off.
these are the last two screws holding your bumper on.

after you take those out.
get these bolts out. one on each side.
right in the same area. just look back further.
towards the front of the car.
this is also the last headlight bolts.

wratchet wrench works best on this.

now get you extra man and both of you at the same time
on each side pull your bumper off like so.

just pull back and the whole assmbly bumper and headlights will
come right out.
headlights now should just unclip off of there brackets and you
should have this.

also for those of you going to do HID fogs this is where i mounted
my ballasts.
it’s basically right behind the foglight itself. right on the frame.

now take your lights to a place were you can work safely.
carpet is the best.
take all the screw and bulbs out.

don’t forget to take the headlight clip also.

Just so everyone knows i didn’t take out the bolt in the picture.
this is the headlight adjustment bolt.

now that the headlights are stripped we can clean them.
i cleaned the headlights just cause i was worried something
might get baked in. so i maid sure they were spotless.
bug and tar remover and glass cleaner.

now pre heat your oven to 300F
as you are waiting for your oven to pre heat
take a look at your headlights. get to know them.
so you know what your up against.
have your self a set of GLOVES also. gets a little hot.
look at all the clips.

all these clips you will need to pry back in order to pop
your headlights apart.

NOTE: your going to do this prying after you get it out of
the oven.
Also you will need one Flat head screwdriver for this to do
the prying.

now i have no pics for this but you all know what a headlight is the
oven looks like.

when your oven is done preheating you can start.
put your headlight in there one at a time.
Time it for 5 minutes.
if you don’t feel safe do 4 minutes.
but i assure you 5 minutes does the trick.
i only had to put them in once.

after 5 minutes pull it out and start working quick to
pry all those tabs i should you earlier. use your screwdriver.
once you pulled all those tabs back it’s time to start prying
on the housing itself. keep using your screwdriver till you get
enough out to where you can get it with your hands alone.

just keep pulling like so.

by now it should be apart. if it’s not put it back in the oven for
3 to 4 minutes more and repeat prying.

if you have been successful you should have this.

now that one is apart let it sit and cool off.
while it’s sitting pop the other headlight in and repeat.

let them both sit for 10 to 15 minutes each to cool off.

after they have cooled off take these screws off.
3 on each side.

just swing the trim up and it should come right out
with no problems.
note: swing the pointed end up (turn signal side)

repeat on both side and you should have them out.

FYI it’s very hard to get the reflector off so if your not
sure don’t attempt.
just get masking tape and tape it off.
i managed to get mine off with a minor chip/crack.
anyway after you have done this please clean them well.
use glass cleaner and get all smears off.
after you clean them make sure you don’t touch the surface
you are going to be painting. grab from under the housing
and place the somewhere safe.

now get you adhesion promoter and shake well like it says on the
directions.
apply yourself at least three coast on each trim.
wait at least 2 minutes between coast or follow
your cans instructions.
make sure you look throughly after every coat and make sure
you get every inch of the surface.

these 2 pics above are after the promoter has been applied.

remember follow your instructions on the can.
after promoter has dried for 10 minutes start with your paint.

do several thin coats to be safe. and allow for some drying time
in between coats. i did about 4 thin coats.
now you should have something like this.

i let mine sit in the sun to rush the drying process.
mine sat for 20 minutes in the sun to dry.
after that they were dry and ready to go back on.

now start the whole process backwards and your done.
put your three screws back on like so.

now your ready to put back in the oven.
peheat again to 300F.
put headlight and housing together best you can.
then put in the oven for 4 minutes.
then take out and snap all your clips back on.
press really hard. it’s very tough.

it’s going to be tough to get them all to go back
but they will go back
Hint: bent them back before you put in in the oven.

now that you have the two pieces together wait again like 10 to
15 minutes to put all screws back on.
while your waiting do the other side.

after you have done both sides and all screws are back on you
should have this.

Note: don’t forget to turn your oven off after you take apart
and put back together.

now you all done finally.
just use the instructions in reverse and put the car
back together.
easier said then done.lol
just remember to have that second person to put the bumper
back on. make it alot easier.

Note: don’t forget to clean your lens with bug cleaner/glass cleaner.
before you put in the oven. that glue stuff will get on there while your
handling the headlights.
also clean them again after you put them on your car.

also don’t forget to silicone them before you put them back
on the car.

and now the finished product.

First remove these 8 Clips using a flathead screw driver to get access to the stock horn.

Once you remove the panel, you have to remove these 2 clips in order to get to the 12mm bolt that’s holding the horn.

Then remove the 12mm bolt

09 Accord’s Horn vs. Stock 09 Fit

Put everything back together & voila, easiest upgrade ever.

For people with big hands, I recommend removing the plastic grille with the “H” emblem. Just a couple more clips and 2 screws.

Some important things to note:

• The 8 clips from the large panel are NOT all the same. There are 6 small and 2 large clips. Make sure you take note of where the large ones go… they are a few millimieteres deeper. I believe they go in the far right/left positions, but always double-check!
• When you remove the smaller panel (2 clips), it is practically impossible to do it without breaking the clips. In fact, College Hills Honda knows this because they are including 2 new clips with the new horn when you order it!
• The Accord horn needs to be installed with the ‘opening’ facing down, so that there is no risk of water ever getting in there, and STAYING in there.
• Because of the above, the connector of the horn will remain on the left side when you install it (not on the right as the original is located). So, you will have to pull on the wire to give it some slack or it won’t reach. If you try to be ’smart’ and install the horn the other way around (connector towards right, hole still facing down) it will be hitting the radiator, so this is really not a good move.

No more meep meep!!!!

forewarning: folks with the mental thought of “bigger hammer works better” may not apply for dong this job.

time: estimating how long it should take, suiting up, setting up, with pictures 1 hr.

tools- hex key (forgot what size, but metric), 17mm wrench or socket, standard screwdriver, jack and jack stands

item list- 1 progress rear sway bar, 6 each of nuts, washers and allen bolts, instructions, and 1 sticker!!!!

1- jack up the car where that rectangular thingy is, after the jack stands are in place, lower the jack and use it for holding the bar

2- position the bar correctly, and estimate approx where the holes line up.

3- once the bar is aligned with the holes, drop in the allen bolt from topside.

4- the 3 bolts in place on driver’s side.

5- the 3 nuts in place on passenger’s side.

6- I know I said bigger hammer metal thought shouldn’t be involved, but the rubber mount holding the spring got in the way of the middle bolt, so I had to use some good ol elbow influence with a thick standard screwdriver to move the mount up enough to drop in the middle bolt on the passenger side.

7. finished. after tightening down all 6 bolts.

8- test drive. didn’t go too far, but i can tell there is a slight difference.

here is a pic of the springs
then you will see a before and after pic.

before

after

first things first. i like to know what i did so here are the measurements before we start.

left rear before

left front before

right front before

right rear before

left front bumper before

right front bumper before

front bumper center before

left rear before

left front before

right front before

right rear before

thats all of the measurements i need. now we can
start this project.

first we have to take the wipers off and all the plastice under
them to gain access to the strut towers.
so take off the rubber caps on you wipers like so

now you can unbolt your wipers via 14mm socket.
make sure you swing the wipers up one at a time
when unbolting the. makes it easier.

now that we have the wiper off prop the hood up to the highest postion
so that the hood is vertical like so.

i didn’t even know i had this option untill i did this job

now take off the rubber gasket that goes across the top

now we can take off the three access panels. one to the left.
and two to the right. use a small screw driver here.

after removed it should look like this.
also while your looking. now we can see the
strut towers and the bolts we have to remove.

now take apart the washer hose like so.
note: make sure you do it just like i got.
cause if you pull thw white connector on
the other side it wont come out the whole.

now pull it out like so.

now get small pliers and take these two black snaps
off.

now for the hardest parts be carefull so you don’t brake any clips.
undo the two small triangular plastics under the points of the hood.
fare left and right ones
by the piller.

if you look at this picture you will see 3 clips i believe ther is 4.
be carefull you don’t snap them.

now we can pry off the big piece. start by prying on the windshield
side so you don’t damage your clips on the other side that i just
showed you.
this is what you’ll get once removed.

this is by far the hardest part of this job.
i am posting alot of pics so people know
what there up against.

so lets move on.
now that we got the bigg panel off take the
small on off and you will have this. presto.

now lets look at this.

make sure you unplug the wire harness first.
now unbolt it via 4 bolts 10mm.
like so.

now we are finally done with this mess.
we can finally start the really job at hand.
springs.

now make sure you take off the rubber caps on the strut tower
bolts. a little hint when putting all back together. if you don’t
how much to tighten look at the rubber. should fit on there
perfectly.
whats else. oh make sure before you start break all your bolts
loose first. so there is no surprises.

i did one side at a time. only one jack.
i also started on the drivers side.
with the wheel off and the car jacked up also
wheels are chucked and e-brake is on.
lets see what we have.

as you can see from the pic above there is alot of stuff to unbolt
and pry off to do this job.
first your abs wire. it has two rubber hold that just pull right out
and one clip. you will need small pliers for the clip. unhook all of that.
now take your brake line holding bolt out also i think it 10mm.
thats done.
got to the sway bar link now and remove that.
i think this is a 14mm nut.
now all the stuff is out of the way.
remove now the two strut bolts that attach to the spindle.
they are19mm bolts and nuts.
now remove the bolt on top of the shock
tower 17mm bolt.

and now you have this laying on the floor.

next take the strut tower bushing off.
note: remember which way it goes back on.

now we can attach that spring compressing tool to the strut.
you can get these as rental for free front auto zone or
advance auto parts stores. you get all your money back
upon returning the tool.

if you have noticed from the pic above i have air tolls.
note: if you have it use it and if you don’t and can get
it. i suggest to get it. if you don’t have it. then all i can say
is have fun. it can be done but it takes alot of time.

all apart now.

of what you see in the pic above all you need is whats
pictured below.

one very important thing not to forget.
make sure you cut these off.
one on the left is for the fronts
the one on the right is for the rears.

bump stops
pain in the ARSE

well now we have come to a point where something is missing.
ahh here it goes.

Drool

i cleaned up the drool from the ground and opened the box
and there they were 4 brothers and sisters.

moving on now that we have everything apart we can compare.
stock vs. lowered.

remember the pieces you took off the stock
spring.

put them on the new spring. like so.

put it on the shock now and blot it down.

note: you don’t need the spring compressors for this.
spring is much smaller and easier. also make sure you don’t
forget to pull the shock protector all the way down so
it snaps back into its place. you need shock protection
nowadays

and finally after you have bolted the spring in and
put the strut bushing back on you’ll have this.

presto your done one shock of course.

the rest you know. just go in reverse of DIY directions and your done.
same applies for pass side foward and back.

also BIG BIG note:
make sure upon removing the strut don’t let
the axle come out to far. you will regret it dearly.
make sure you use bungy cords and or a jack to hold the
lower control arm up so axles don’t come out to far.

also so people know. here are the torque settings for some
bolts for when putting back together.
the strut bolt holding the spring on. 65 ft.lbs.
the top strut bolt used to hold the strut on the car. 33 ft.lbs.
the two lower strut bolts 65 ft.lbs.

well lets get started on the back of the car.
for this to be done you have to have the hole back
end of you car lifted. and not by the suspension.
so i began by lifting one side at a time by the bottom
of the spring. look at my picture and see where the jack is.
this is where i jacked each end up from and while up i placed
jack stands up.

now you should have both jack stands on the car and the wheels off.
before we go any further make sure you unhook you abs wires on
both sides.

now take your jack again and place it on the car just like in the picture.

right under the spring. jack it up like an inch or so.
then take off both bottom shock bolts completly. right and left.
after you have done that take your jack out. it will look similar to this.

all you do now is just give it a little push and wam both springs will
just pop right out.
now we can compare again. lets see.

next pop open the hatch. pop out the two shock tower covers.
right and left. i only have a picture of the right one. look and
you will see a hook facing up wards. this is the cover to pop
off using a screw driver. repeat on the left side.

now that the covers are off unbolt the shocks.
ah before i forget. we are taking the shocks out because
of this.

the one to the left is for the front.
the one to the right is for the back.
the bump stop is under the shock cover well hidden.

now that we have the shocks out take out you bump stops
and cut them.
ah but wait it’s not that easy. make sure you have a small and medium
screw drivers handy for this. also a hammer and a vise.
hard to explain. sorry i didn’t take pics of this process. by this time
i was very frustrated.
but anyway you will see a sleeve on there that just doesn’t want
to come out. this sleeve is crimped in. so start with your small screw driver an dhammer it in the crack of the sleeve. thus speeding the
sleeve and making it bigger. you will most likely have to move to
the bigger screw driver to achieve this.
but now the sleeve will come out.
cut you bumps off and your all set.

here are some pics thanks to Malice101
the first one shows the top of the rear shock.
you must remove that metal sleeve to get to the bumpstop.
i used a screw driver to open it up by twisting it.

also don’t forget when putting your new springs on. watch out for
that bottom rubber bushing. it only goes on one way. it has a nipple
on it and goes back only the whole it came out of. it may look like it
will go back in any hole but it doesn’t. so make sure you mark it
so you don’t forget.

now you can put everything back together in reverse.
should look like this when done.

This is a add on from TORK
2/4/2010

I just noticed a nice correction can be made here.

The rear shock collars, you do not have to pry them open to get to the rear bump stops. Just put the allen wrench in the shock end, clamp a vice grip on the collar. Then apply a little bit of pull up pressure while turning the vice grip counter clock wise. They simply unscrew right off.
I have done it twice this way. Back early summer with springs/cutting bump stop and a month ago when I installed air shocks. Sorry I did not mention this sooner.

Sorry if someone else caught this. I didn’t go back and read the 10 pages of posts.

Mike

now we can go for a test drive and let the suspension
set back down a bit.

after i got back from the test drive i was impressed and alot lower
but i also noticed my car didn’t need a alignment. maybe after the suspension finally settles. i’m not sure. but for now i’m opting not
to do it. as we all know by now there is no camber/caster
adjustments on the Fit. thus meaning there is nothing to align
but toe. and as for the toe i never disconnected it so it should
be alright. and so far it is. i let go of the wheel and the car tracks
perfect.

well with that said time to take measurements again.

left rear after

left front after

right front after

right rear after

now thats lower
but hers more

left rear after

left front after

left front after again

right front after

right rear after

left front bumper after

center of front bumper after

right side front bumper after

this pic above is the ring opened and preped for install.
if you notice i have an eye-let attached to black.
add a fuse to red
and a connector on blue.

all tools supplies you will need are:
wire crimps/strippers
linesman
to wire connecters (the red ones you will see in pics later)
one eye-let connector
one add a fuse wire
male and female connector (to make a wire longer)
phillips screw driver
flat head screw driver

okay first picture shows all 4 parts you have to remove.
note all parts just pull right off except the steering column
cover. if you look at the pics. you will see two holes on the
bottom of steering column. these two holes have phillips head
screws in them along with another one by the steering wheel
adjuster. is is right above the handle where you adjust the
steering wheel. so total you have 3 phillips head screws.

after you remove all 3 screws move to the fuse box access door open it
via handle under the 3 blank slots.

now that you opened it unhook it. (just pull on it carefully and
it will come right off)
now that the door is off you will see this

now you have to remove the tray on the bottom.
if you look on the bottom of the tray you will see
a twist knob on the far left side (closest to the door)
the other side is just a snap.
look at the pic above and you will see what it looks like from the top.
this knob holds the tray in.
twist it pull it down so the other side unsnaps and its off.
this is a pic twisted ready to come off

now we go back to the steering column.
this is made up of two peices.
top and bottom.
i pulled them apart by getting a small skinny screw driver
and putting a rag over it.
i stuck the screw driver with the rag in the headlight hole and in the
wiper hole. just pull the driver up towards the sky and the top will
unclip from the bottom. like so.

now make sure you release your steering wheel ajuster. (open it so that the steering wheel can go back and forth up and down.
pull it out all the way and down. now remove the top.

now keep the wheel all the way out but lift it this time all the
way up. remove the bottom peice make sure your carefull. you have to guide it through the lever.

now you have everything off.

now we can begin to connect the wireing
but first you have to locate the connectors and color wires that you
need to splice into.

okay lets get the wires on the key ring
you have red,black,yellow and blue.

well
red is 12v constant
black is ground
yellow is switched by ignition.
we will be hooking this one up to
gray wire.
blue is door lock unlock
we will be hooking this one up to
the brown wire with silver spots.

okay lets start with the igniton switch.
look at the pics and look for the silver wire.
this is the one to hook up to.

hook it up like so.
yellow to silver.

now that we have the silver hooked. don’t worry if you hear the door bell
chime. this means it’s working and you have the right wire.

now lets move to the ground.
i put it here.

this picture above also shows a good view of the yellow attched
to the gray.

now we can move onto the red.
once this is attached you door chime will silence.
with the add a fuse your basically in control.
you can put it just about anywhere in your fuse box.
this is why i picked this method.
i hooked it up here.

alright now we are almost done
all we have left is the blue wire.
look for a clip on your fuse box. it’s green
and on the bottom left hand corner.
look at the pics. i have multiple pics with different
angles so don’t get confused.
look at my pics and look for the brown wire with silver
spots.
i have pulled it out a little so you can see.

okay now that we have located the brown wire we can attach the blue
wire to it.
now mind you that i extened the blue wire. so it has chaged color to green. so don’t get confused.

also a side note the blue wire was the only wire i had to extend.

okay so here are pics connected.

here is a pic also of where the blue changes to green. (the only wire i extended)

well now we are done.

don’t forget to put a zip tie on the harness.

now you can put everthing back together in the same process but
reverse.

the only thing i have to add is one thing. when putting the steering wheel
peices back on there is a trick to it.
look at the pic

this is a pick with the bottom on and the top off. pic is from the top of the steering column.
look at the right and left side top of steering column opening. do you see
the rectangular holes? i hope you do.
it is very improtant you put the top cover on hooks first or it won’t
clip on properly.

so there you have it.

so here are a few pics when it’s on.

blue is when door(s) unlocked
red is when car is locked
flashes red also like a security feature.

to start i’ll show you what tools you’ll need.

okay now you can start by taking the door handle
cover off. it has three tabs at the bottom.
i just pulled it and it came right off.

look at pics to see the tabs

here is what it looks like off.
also look and you will see two philips screws that you
will have to remove. one is right next to the door lock
and the other is behind the panel you took off.
also unclip the power to the window switches.

now that the screws are off it’s time to take off the door panel.
i used a window crank removal too to do this.
like so.

make sure you twist the door lock so it goes out of the door panel.
now that the door panel is off you need to take off the speaker.

also before we get started.
silicone is your best friend.
when ever i change my lights i usually
silicone the edges. where the lens meets
the housing. this stops any future leaks.

now peel back the plastic like so.
use a piece of tape to hold it back.
if you have gloves wear them. that sealant
is nasty stuff.
now unclip the blue/white clip in the picture.

next take off the small panel behind the mirror.
a small screw driver will do the job.
just pry on it from the top or bottom.
it will pop right out.

now pull the blue wire you unclipped all the way out of the door.

now you’ll want to take your mirror off.
take a look at the pic and see where my thumb is.

here is another pics of it off just so you can see where i’m talking about.
see the slot at the bottom right hand corner.
that is the one.

make sure you tilt your mirror up towards the sky and in towards
the car in order to see the slots.
you will need to put a flat head screw driver in the slot between the
white plastic and the mirror. you’ll see what i’m talking about once
you look up at it.
then proceed and twist your screw driver. this will pop out the bottom
half of your mirror. now all you need to do is tilt the mirror up and it
will come right out.
now you have this.

now if you look at your new covers you can see all the clips
that hold it on. you can also look inside the mirror like so.
there is about 6 clips.

push on them and the cover will pop out.
now unbolt the mirror using a 10mm socket set up.
take it to you bench/table what ever you have.
you can now screw on your blinkers.

now pop this cover off at the bottom of your mirror

like so

take the three screws off and now you can run the wires
through the mirror.
also before i ran my wires i soldered them together.

after that it will look something like this.

i also taped all my wires so they look good.

now look at this pics and you will see a white clip behind where the speaker
was. just unclip it so you can get some slack out of the wire.

now take that piece of #12 wire i had in the tool list.
look at my pic and you’ll get the idea.
pull apart the rubber seal from both ends and run run
the #12 through it.
like so.

now use some electrical tape and tape the wires you
are running to the #12 wire.
hook it like this so you can pull it through.

now you can finally start putting stuff back together.
bolt your mirror back up. make sure you run all your wires
like they came out.
i taped and zip tied my wires to the oem mirrors wires and
power door lock wires.

by now if you don’t have your inside panels out get them out.
like so.

now do the other side the same way and put it back together.
run your wires nice and neat under the dash.
like i said earlier i taped and zip tied all my wires.

now we can locate the blue and white wires that Dave let us
know about.
thanks Dave
look at the pics. white is at the top blue is at the bottom.

Blue is left +
white is right +

the negatives i put together.

then i bolted them to the hood release bracket.

now we can hook up the positive blue and white.
like so.

now it’s finally done. test and put back together.

— Pic of some of supplies used for oil change. Jack is already under car with jackstand.

1. Jack up car (or use ramps if you have the space)– this allows easy access to oil drain plug. Behind the front wheels is a reinforced area to place the scissor jack under. Before jacking up the car engage the emergancy brake and put wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. After raising the car put a jack stand under the rail next to the scissor jack and lower the vehical until its weight is supported by both the scissor jack and the jackstand. Ideally you would have a low profile floor jack that can reach.under the front end to the center front jack point. Then you could just place jack stands on both sides in the appropriate area and lower the vehical onto the jack stands. For the oil change I only raised the front passenger side of the vehical.

— Pic of car while jacked up

— Owner Manual Page showing Jack Points on Honda Fit

— Looking at oil pan from behind front passenger wheel. Honda makes it easy. Engine Oil is stamped into the bottom of the oil pan, right next to the plug.

2. Place newspapers and drain pan under car. – This helps to prevent any spills on concrete.

— Underside of car with newspaper . Looking from front to rear.

3. Use 17mm wrench or socket wrench to remove drain plug and drain oil. – Be careful not to let drain plug fall into whatever container it is you are using to catch the oil. It will be messy to fish it out. Place plug where it can’t be lost.

— Oil draining into drain pan.

4. Remove oil filter. – While oil is draining remove the old oil filter. Use oil filter wrench (65/67mm – 14 Flutes). As you unscrew the oil filter oil will start to leak out. Maneuver you oil drain pan so that it catches the leaking oil.

— Pic of Oil Filter

— Oil filter mount point.

5. Install new oil filter. – Put clean oil on oil filters rubber seal. Screw oil filter onto mount point.

Screw oil filter on by hand. Do not over tighten or the gasket may fail. Additionally it will be hard to remove the
filter at your next oil change.

6. Install oil drain plug with new crush washer and fill engine with new oil.

— Drain plug with new crush washer. Crush washer was purchased from Honda Parts Dept. It was relatively inexpensive. Install onto oil pan by tightening with 17mm wrench or socket wrench.

— Pour new oil into fill hole. The shop manual states that the oil capacity with a filter change is 3.6liters or 3.8 US qts. I usually fill it with 3.8 quarts then run the engine a little and add oil as necessary after checking the dip stick.

This concludes my DIY for an 2007 Honda FIT Oil Change! Hope it was informative. Note that the Oil Grade recommended in the shop manual isSM 5W-20. The used oil I discard at the local recycling center. You can also bring used oil to Advanced Auto Parts and most other Auto Parts stores. Don’t forget to reset the maintenance minder. Put the key in the on position without starting the car. Press the odometer button until you see the oil life. Press for 10 seconds or until oil life blinks. Press for another 5 seconds or until oil life is 100%.

Below are the pages of the owners manual pertaining to an oil change. If you have any questions or comments let me know. If you want to see any of the pics utilized in this DIY in greater detail click on the following link:

— Owner Manual Page —

— Owner Manual Page —

— Owner Manual Page —

— Owner Manual Page —

crescent wrench (for O2 sensor removal)

Just make sure you got your ratchet set with deep sockets and regular ones.. here are the main ones that i remember using
14mm (you will need a deep socket)
10mm
12mm (i think)
8mm (i think)

PB blaster – pretty sure this helped loosen the bolts to make things easy to unscrew.

Best tool tip: get a ‘cheater bar’ or a steel pipe that’s about 1-2feet long. It is possible to get the ratchet in there with this pipe over the handle, there was just enough space to move the pipe in order to loosen the header bolts. without this using a ratchet less than 1 foot long is next to impossible for my tiny arms with the bar, loosening the bolts was piece of cake

- Header : Weapon R header



The design of this looks so cool! Only street header that has a 4-2-1 that I know of. I believe the only other one that has a more ‘true’ 4-2-1 design is the Weapon R race header. Anyway, enough with the initial impressions.. onto the header removal
Before we start, make sure car is cool. I did this first thing in the morning, so all the pipes and everything was cool to touch.

1) Remove the header heat shield plate. Three bolts secure this shield. I forget the size bolt but its 8mm or 10mm.. it’s EASY. ANYBODY could do this. This was as far as I could get on the first few attempts many months ago
I’ve read that some members have had trouble with these bolts. My suggestion is to use hand tools to prevent broken bolts and other crazy unexpected stuff that could happen.

2) Unscrew the top two header nuts and break loose bottom 3 bolts.
Tip 1: spray PB blaster on all 5 bolts (2 upper, 3 lower) and let it penetrate for a good 5-10 minutes. I ate breakfast while I waited.
Tip 2: Use the pipe extension along with your ratchet and 14mm deep socket. First I put the ratchet and 14mm socket on the bolt first to get positioned to put the pipe over. I should have taken a pic of the pipe extension.. but the space used for the pipe is where you take the heat shield out. Make sure gentle smooth force is used and not excessive force or you might strip something. When it becomes loosened you’ll feel the nut break free. Once you got that part over, take off the pipe and unscrew the nut. Luckily just the nut came off for me.. I have 2008 Fit. Some other members have said the nut comes off with the stud. Not sure if PB blaster comes in to play here or gently taking off the bolts with the pipe extension.
Tip 3: Break loose the bottom 3 header bolts with the pipe extension but do not unscrew them off. This is to prevent putting excess pressure on the spring bolts that connect the header to the cat. converter. I’ve read some people have bent the spring bolts and other horror stories, so keep those 3 bolts on for now!

3) Unplug O2 sensor.
This took me a while to figure out.. I was trying to pull the O2 sensor connector, but there’s a tab underneath that prevents it from moving.
Tip 1: in the picture below, the connector on the left is connected to both an engine mount as well as the actual connector. To remove the O2 connector, simply push the tab down on the right connector and pull the plug to the right. It should come off smoothly.
Tip 2: to remove the O2 sensor plug from the mount, there’s a small tab to press underneath the plug. Press it, and then pull towards the header to remove.



[bottom of O2 sensor plug]

4) Spray PB blaster on spring bolts and header support bolts from the top of the car. I did this step right after loosening the header bolts.

you can see the PB blaster has penetrated through the header support bolt on the left.

5) unscrew spring bolts.
Tip: Just do this step slowly and alternate with each bolt to unscrew them evenly just to be safe. I did not notice any excess weight placed on the header or spring bolts, most likely because I still have 3 header bolts in place up top. Therefore, my worries about bending the spring bolts were not so high.

6) From the top unscrew the 3 bottom header bolts and remove header.
Since the top two studs remained in place, removing the three bolts was easy. If the top two studs are removed, I would suggest holding the header in one hand to support it from falling once you get the last screw off.

header removed! woohoo!

Weapon R street header comparison with stock header

7) Remove O2 sensor and replace on Weapon R header
Tip: Use crescent wrench and a little PB blaster.

WeaonR header is about 1/2″ shorter in length causing the ‘fitment’ issues. The header support mounting bracket will not reach the Weapon R header without modification. Some members have used a vice grip to flatten the mounting plate out. I did not have one and man power is not enough to flatten it..

inside diameter of stock header pipe.. looks less than 1″

WeaponR header piping diameter looks about 1.5″

Clean gasket and donut and reuse.
FF member Koi said his donut was loose on his car. Mine fit fine, but if you want to be safe you can purchase a new donut. I was going to but was too anxious to install the header luckily it worked out fine.

9) Install header, screw on top nuts and lower bolts but do not tighten.
Make sure to reuse the header gasket and put it on over the header studs correctly.
Tip 1: while reinstalling header, hold onto the donut while you lower it back in to prevent it from falling out.

10) Screw in spring bolts
Tip1: give the cat pipe some support and push it forward towards the header to allow the spring bolts to thread into the header. I did not have trouble threading them in, I carefully screwed each spring bolt evenly until both were in completely as seen in the pic below.

Original header support bracket was not reused since I did not modify it to fit. But it did feel as if there is enough support from the header bolts and the cat pipe.. I hope.

11) Reconnect the O2 sensor plug and tighten all header bolts.

Tip: Fatory specs for these header bolts are 33 lbs./ft. Unfortunately my torque wrench was too big to long to fit, so I torqued it as much as I could without the pipe extension. I’ll probably get a smaller torque wrench to torque it to specs later on, but it feels pretty secure to me.

12) Make a final check.. header bolts are tightened, and spring bolts are tightened, O2 sensor is screwed securly in header and O2 sensor plug is mounted and reconnected.

13) moment of truth.. start the engine to test for leaks..
YouTube – Honda Fit – Weapon R header – PRM intake – Spoon ETD – Beatrush Underpanel
woohoo! so far so good no leaks..

Final thoughts:
What makes this whole experience a successful one is the pipe extension. I did not attempt to use this the first few times before. So using a small ratchet with barely any torque seemed next to impossible removing those header bolts. It felt like I was going to either break the ratchet or the bolt. With the pipe extension, it greatly reduced the amount of effort needed to loosen the bolts.

Most of the tips are learned through other forum members experiences. So I was just being extra careful not to repeat some of the horror stories since I do not have quick access to repairs and parts.

Overall, header removal was not as bad as I expected. Only real challenge was removing those stubborn header bolts. And below that, was probably disconnecting the O2 sensor plug from the connector and the mount.

Expected time to remove and install header with all the knowledge above: less than 2 hours

Length of time it took me: 4-5 hours