Honda Fit DIY

For this install we are using the RS*R suspension sytem.
this install can apply to all springs also.

here is a pic of the springs
then you will see a before and after pic.

before

after

first things first. i like to know what i did so here are the measurements before we start.

left rear before

left front before

right front before

right rear before

left front bumper before

right front bumper before

front bumper center before

left rear before

left front before

right front before

right rear before

thats all of the measurements i need. now we can
start this project.

first we have to take the wipers off and all the plastice under
them to gain access to the strut towers.
so take off the rubber caps on you wipers like so

now you can unbolt your wipers via 14mm socket.
make sure you swing the wipers up one at a time
when unbolting the. makes it easier.

now that we have the wiper off prop the hood up to the highest postion
so that the hood is vertical like so.

i didn’t even know i had this option untill i did this job

now take off the rubber gasket that goes across the top

now we can take off the three access panels. one to the left.
and two to the right. use a small screw driver here.

after removed it should look like this.
also while your looking. now we can see the
strut towers and the bolts we have to remove.

now take apart the washer hose like so.
note: make sure you do it just like i got.
cause if you pull thw white connector on
the other side it wont come out the whole.

now pull it out like so.

now get small pliers and take these two black snaps
off.

now for the hardest parts be carefull so you don’t brake any clips.
undo the two small triangular plastics under the points of the hood.
fare left and right ones
by the piller.

if you look at this picture you will see 3 clips i believe ther is 4.
be carefull you don’t snap them.

now we can pry off the big piece. start by prying on the windshield
side so you don’t damage your clips on the other side that i just
showed you.
this is what you’ll get once removed.

this is by far the hardest part of this job.
i am posting alot of pics so people know
what there up against.

so lets move on.
now that we got the bigg panel off take the
small on off and you will have this. presto.

now lets look at this.

make sure you unplug the wire harness first.
now unbolt it via 4 bolts 10mm.
like so.

now we are finally done with this mess.
we can finally start the really job at hand.
springs.

now make sure you take off the rubber caps on the strut tower
bolts. a little hint when putting all back together. if you don’t
how much to tighten look at the rubber. should fit on there
perfectly.
whats else. oh make sure before you start break all your bolts
loose first. so there is no surprises.

i did one side at a time. only one jack.
i also started on the drivers side.
with the wheel off and the car jacked up also
wheels are chucked and e-brake is on.
lets see what we have.

as you can see from the pic above there is alot of stuff to unbolt
and pry off to do this job.
first your abs wire. it has two rubber hold that just pull right out
and one clip. you will need small pliers for the clip. unhook all of that.
now take your brake line holding bolt out also i think it 10mm.
thats done.
got to the sway bar link now and remove that.
i think this is a 14mm nut.
now all the stuff is out of the way.
remove now the two strut bolts that attach to the spindle.
they are19mm bolts and nuts.
now remove the bolt on top of the shock
tower 17mm bolt.

and now you have this laying on the floor.

next take the strut tower bushing off.
note: remember which way it goes back on.

now we can attach that spring compressing tool to the strut.
you can get these as rental for free front auto zone or
advance auto parts stores. you get all your money back
upon returning the tool.

if you have noticed from the pic above i have air tolls.
note: if you have it use it and if you don’t and can get
it. i suggest to get it. if you don’t have it. then all i can say
is have fun. it can be done but it takes alot of time.

all apart now.

of what you see in the pic above all you need is whats
pictured below.

one very important thing not to forget.
make sure you cut these off.
one on the left is for the fronts
the one on the right is for the rears.

bump stops
pain in the ARSE

well now we have come to a point where something is missing.
ahh here it goes.

Drool

i cleaned up the drool from the ground and opened the box
and there they were 4 brothers and sisters.

moving on now that we have everything apart we can compare.
stock vs. lowered.

remember the pieces you took off the stock
spring.

put them on the new spring. like so.

put it on the shock now and blot it down.

note: you don’t need the spring compressors for this.
spring is much smaller and easier. also make sure you don’t
forget to pull the shock protector all the way down so
it snaps back into its place. you need shock protection
nowadays

and finally after you have bolted the spring in and
put the strut bushing back on you’ll have this.

presto your done one shock of course.

the rest you know. just go in reverse of DIY directions and your done.
same applies for pass side foward and back.

also BIG BIG note:
make sure upon removing the strut don’t let
the axle come out to far. you will regret it dearly.
make sure you use bungy cords and or a jack to hold the
lower control arm up so axles don’t come out to far.

also so people know. here are the torque settings for some
bolts for when putting back together.
the strut bolt holding the spring on. 65 ft.lbs.
the top strut bolt used to hold the strut on the car. 33 ft.lbs.
the two lower strut bolts 65 ft.lbs.

well lets get started on the back of the car.
for this to be done you have to have the hole back
end of you car lifted. and not by the suspension.
so i began by lifting one side at a time by the bottom
of the spring. look at my picture and see where the jack is.
this is where i jacked each end up from and while up i placed
jack stands up.

now you should have both jack stands on the car and the wheels off.
before we go any further make sure you unhook you abs wires on
both sides.

now take your jack again and place it on the car just like in the picture.

right under the spring. jack it up like an inch or so.
then take off both bottom shock bolts completly. right and left.
after you have done that take your jack out. it will look similar to this.

all you do now is just give it a little push and wam both springs will
just pop right out.
now we can compare again. lets see.

next pop open the hatch. pop out the two shock tower covers.
right and left. i only have a picture of the right one. look and
you will see a hook facing up wards. this is the cover to pop
off using a screw driver. repeat on the left side.

now that the covers are off unbolt the shocks.
ah before i forget. we are taking the shocks out because
of this.

the one to the left is for the front.
the one to the right is for the back.
the bump stop is under the shock cover well hidden.

now that we have the shocks out take out you bump stops
and cut them.
ah but wait it’s not that easy. make sure you have a small and medium
screw drivers handy for this. also a hammer and a vise.
hard to explain. sorry i didn’t take pics of this process. by this time
i was very frustrated.
but anyway you will see a sleeve on there that just doesn’t want
to come out. this sleeve is crimped in. so start with your small screw driver an dhammer it in the crack of the sleeve. thus speeding the
sleeve and making it bigger. you will most likely have to move to
the bigger screw driver to achieve this.
but now the sleeve will come out.
cut you bumps off and your all set.

here are some pics thanks to Malice101
the first one shows the top of the rear shock.
you must remove that metal sleeve to get to the bumpstop.
i used a screw driver to open it up by twisting it.

also don’t forget when putting your new springs on. watch out for
that bottom rubber bushing. it only goes on one way. it has a nipple
on it and goes back only the whole it came out of. it may look like it
will go back in any hole but it doesn’t. so make sure you mark it
so you don’t forget.

now you can put everything back together in reverse.
should look like this when done.

This is a add on from TORK
2/4/2010

I just noticed a nice correction can be made here.

The rear shock collars, you do not have to pry them open to get to the rear bump stops. Just put the allen wrench in the shock end, clamp a vice grip on the collar. Then apply a little bit of pull up pressure while turning the vice grip counter clock wise. They simply unscrew right off.
I have done it twice this way. Back early summer with springs/cutting bump stop and a month ago when I installed air shocks. Sorry I did not mention this sooner.

Sorry if someone else caught this. I didn’t go back and read the 10 pages of posts.

Mike

now we can go for a test drive and let the suspension
set back down a bit.

after i got back from the test drive i was impressed and alot lower
but i also noticed my car didn’t need a alignment. maybe after the suspension finally settles. i’m not sure. but for now i’m opting not
to do it. as we all know by now there is no camber/caster
adjustments on the Fit. thus meaning there is nothing to align
but toe. and as for the toe i never disconnected it so it should
be alright. and so far it is. i let go of the wheel and the car tracks
perfect.

well with that said time to take measurements again.

left rear after

left front after

right front after

right rear after

now thats lower
but hers more

left rear after

left front after

left front after again

right front after

right rear after

left front bumper after

center of front bumper after

right side front bumper after