Drive an auto? Hate how it looks? Well stop hearing your friends tell you that your a “ricer” and you need to do a 5spd swap. This is the answer.

Materials Needed:
- PH2 Screw Driver (Philips Head #2)
- Small Flat Head Screw Driver
- Shift Boot
- Razo RA89 Automatic Shift Knob w/ All the set screws/things it comes with

Step 1
Remove the panel that surrounds the automatic shifter using the small flathead screw driver.

Step 2
Using the PH2 Screw Driver, remove the TWO screws on both sides of the OEM Shift Knob.

You’ll be left with something like this:

Step 3
Install the Shift Boot, lining up the edges of the shift boot to the edges of the shifter and place the reference sticker sent with the Razo Shift Knob on the place where the Razo shift knob rests on top of the shifters WITHOUT pushing down on the actual knob.

Step 4
After wards, install the “collar” that is shipped with the shift knob. (i know the image is missing the shiftboot and the reference line, this was the only picture i had showing the collar on the shifter shaft)

Step 5
Then after wards, install the bottom end of the shift know and the middle section thats hidden within the shift knob (use the two SMALLER set screws sent)

Step 5
Place the spring on top of the inner piece thats held on the shaft with the set screws. Then place the Razo Upper Shift Knob on top of the entire enclosure and screw both halves together. Then re-install the panel surrounding the shifter and now your done.

*It’ll take some trial and error to get the reference line JUST right so that there isnt any tension pushing down on the inner shaft when the two halves are screwed together. If there is tension, your ignition will NOT let go of your key so take your time. It’s trial and error. Also, the center piece that centers the inner shaft in reference to the outer shaft can move around. Either hot glue gun it down, or use some duct tape to secure it down. Make sure the hot glue does NOT get on the inner shaft.

]Before

After

there’s $330 down the tube, because I have no plans to keep an N1 style muffler on a daily driver

so this led me to go on a full on search
TRUBENDZ Technology Exhaust
also known as
Mandrel Exhaust Systems
I came across this store which offers different setups at different price brackets
PRICE
$120.00 Aluminized Steel, 2.25 Inch
$120.00 Aluminized Steel, 2.5 Inch
$195.00 Aluminized Steel, 3 Inch
$195.00 304 Stainless Steel, 2.25 Inch
$195.00 304 Stainless Steel, 2.5 Inch
$270.00 304 Stainless Steel, 3 Inch

Shipping is also pretty cheap at around $20

Anyway, I will be in the market for one of these “exhaust kits” in a few days, just need to first sell this megan exhaust or sell some stuff on eBay

GOAL: 2.5″ FROM THE HEADER BACK
304SUS Tubing Kit $220
MagnaFlow Muffler 12216 (5″ x 8″ Oval 14″ Body 2.5″ C/C) $63.68
Magnaflow Resonator 10416 (14 BODY 2.5 C/C W/2.5) $47.90
Magnaflow Tip 35125 (2.25″ Inlet Expanded to 2.5″) $32.53
Magnaflow 45-Bend 10736 (2.5 I.D.) $16.23 (purchased in case it is needed)
Labor $100
Just over $400 fora 2.5″ exhaust

Finally got around to getting this installed… it was purchased for my 2door dc4… which I sold… and now have a 2000 DB8… see the beauty in this exhaust kit… you can install on either 2 or 4 door without having to worry about anything, without further chit chat here are a couple pics from earlier today

power steering

1. Drain the resevoir

2. Unbolt the Power Steering pump and the brackets holding the lines on.

3. Remove all fluid lines down to the valve housing and it should look like the following picture.

4. Cut the metal piping that you removed from one side of the valve housing right after the fitting that screwed in. This fitting is shown here with the arrow pointing to it.

5. Slide the fitting off because we will reuse this.

6. Find a straight piece of the metal tubing (I used one from my AC system that I had removed) and cut it out. It only needs to be about 2-3 inches long.

7. Using a flaring tool, flare one end of the metal tubing out.

8. Slide the fitting that is shown in step 4 over the newly created line.

9. Once the fitting is on, flare the other end of the tube.

10. Screw this back onto the valve housing.

11. Now turn the steering wheel back and forth multiple times to force most of the fluid out of the system. There only needs to be a little inside to keep the rack and pinion lubed up.

12. Now take the u-shaped rubber pipe shown here, that was removed off of the resevoir. It is shown in the circle and will only be on b18C1 engines.

13. We will reuse this piping to connect the valve housing back to itself.

14. Push the longer side onto the existing pipe on the valve housing and the shorter side onto our created line.

15. Tighten down both clamps and you are done.

I have had it on for a day now and no leaks.

so i thought i would post my own, doing it how honda does it

First you need to go to honda and order some bulbs, honda part # 79609-S02-A11 from a 99-00 civic si

you dont use the actual bulbs, just the amber covers that go over them
heres how they come, right, and after the rubber “cap” is taken off, i just used my fingernail, it came off very easy

sooooo….
pull out the climate control

and replace the bulbs

and

there are 4 (3rg gen integra)

here you can see the right half done, left half stock

and finally…….

done!

i did my cluster as well

enjoy
total cost is about $15

materials/tools needed:
2 8′ 1×4
1 8′ 2×4
1 4×8′ sheet of half inch plywood
jigsaw
screws (i used #8 1.5″ screws)
measuring tape
black felt pen
old trunk carpet (makes it MUCH easier)
*new rear trunk bolts (explained later)
metal strapping (you’ll see what i mean later)
hole saw will make life a hell of a lot easier
piano hinge and something to cut it
tin snips

**i will apologize in advance as i dont have measurements..but a quick check with a measuring tape and you’ll be fine**

Step 1:
first things first what you want to do is start laying down your support pieces. your going to use the 1×4. i chose 1×4’s because i didnt want the floor to be too high and with the 2×4 where i put it, everything works out perfectly flat. your going to want one support goin across the back, two going across where the metal bracket is under the seat (i removed mine), and two shorter ones running in between them as seen in the pics.


*you’ll need to trim the corners so this piece will fit. again just mark it with a pen and cut, this piece is not crucial*

*the second middle support was added later for the optional step 5, but when only adding maybe an extra 1lb or so, it cant hurt..just place the two middle ones so they touch*

Step 2:
now you want to set up the 2×4. it will run on its side at end closest to the front seats. this will be the front-most support for the system.

There it is!

and now all three main supports together:

step 3:
next use a hole saw to cut a hole in the rear-most support where the two screws at the rear of the car (that go through the floor) are. this is going to serve to anchor the floor to the car. the holes must be big enough to let the bolts go through..but not so big that the washer will go through as well. all else fails you can always spring for a larger washer. the holes are roughly where the blue circle in this pic is:

i found it easiest to lay the wood on top of the screws and hit the wood so the head would leave an indent and just drill there

step 4:
now its time to start cutting out the top sheet out of the 4×8. this is where the carpet comes in. its not perfect but it will get you very close. you WILL need to trim some off the sides so be prepared with that jigsaw. i found that out of 1 4×8 sheet it was easiest to cut the rear half of the floor, and then the front half, having the cutoff at the middle support in the floor so that both can be screwed down. heres tracing the carpet using the felt:

theres the front half, you can see the rear half in the other corner of the sheet.

and the rear half.

step 5 (optional):
now cut it all out. this next step is optional. i chose to leave my spare tire and fuel pump accessible even with the floor installed so i needed to make some flip up access panels. for the spare tire i believe it was 18inches wide or so and opened up from the rear of the car. the panel rested on the rear most support so its a few inches back from the edge but still sits on it. install the piano hinge so that panel will flip up

door finished

installed the door is JUST big enough to remove the spare. the hinge side rests right above the middle support as well so the screws dont pull out. pre-drill the holes for the screws so they dont split the wood.

for the fuel pump access, i do believe its roughly 14inches wide. same idea your goin to need to cut it out, and hinge it on the middle support of the floor:

and both access doors:

step 6:
now to install the floors. if you havent noticed, the rear panel doesnt slid in nicely. this worked for me because i just cut it in half vertically around the access panel. then i was able to slide both halves and press fit them in. the front half of the floor wont need to be cut in half as it can just be put in through the doors. your also going to want to drill holes (again using hole saw) above the bolts that are holding down the rear-most support so you can get to them with a ratchet through the top sheet to tighten/loosen them.

and the holes for the bolts:

step 7:
ok your almost done! now you want to use the tin snips and the strapping. there are bolts that hold the thick metal bar under the front of the back seats. about 6 of them i believe in total, i only used 3 to anchor the 2×4. what you want to do is bolt the metal strapping to the floor and then under the 2×4 and screw it down. you may have to use a dremel to open up the holes in the strapping so the bolt will go through, its time consuming but works. you can see what im talking about here (it doesnt show the bolts, but you’ll see what i mean when you get there). :

now all thats left is to screw the top sheet down to the supports at points you think will work well. theres no real science to it. also, you can choose to carpet it however you want, i just went to end of the roll (bulk carpet store) and used brass thumbtacks to take it to the floor. i think im going to pick up some velcro to use instead so it will look cleaner, but im also redoing the whole floor. i’ve drilled many holes doing my sound system and i just want to clean everything up now that i’ve done it once.

well thats it t-i! any questions just ask and i’ll answer as best i can.
now i’ve been rockin this floor for the last month and a half or so and it hasnt shifted at all. you can use whats left of the 2×4 to make some vertical supports for the front half of the floor but i never did because thats where my amps are so nothing heavy will really lie there.

FINISHED PICS!

ball joint

Tools needed:

Jack and jack stands

10,12,14,17,19, and 32mm sockets

3/4, 1/2 ratchet

17, 19mm wrench

Impact driver

Needle nose pliers

rubber mallet

BFH (big *cough* hammer)

Pitman tool (Free rental at autozone: $25 deposit)

Ball joint press (Free rental at autozone: $105 deposit)

air ratchet (optional, but highly recommended)

Before we start I want to give some suggestions of things you should look at and replace while having everything off.

Check your brakes

Check your axle boots

Lets get started!

1. jack up your car (remember to loosen lugs before jacking)

2. Support your car with jack stands

3. remove lug nuts and wheel

4. brake removal (for detailed brake removal instructions please check link that was shown above)

5. remove caliper (12 or 14mm socket)

6. Remove brake pads

7. Remove brake bracket (17mm)

8. Remove axle nut. You don’t have to do this now, but I went ahead and did it with my air ratchet. If you don’t have an air ratchet then I recommend you do this before removing the brakes, and have some one press the brakes while you crank on it with a really big ratchet, and the 32mm socket.

Un-notch axle nut (safety notch)

Remove axle nut

9. Remove rotor screws, and remove rotor. USE IMPACT DRIVER!!! A normal screwdriver will not work for this. You have been WARNED.

Tap the back of the impact driver with a hammer, and it will loosen the screws.

10. Remove brake line bolts

11. remove 4 sensor bolts, and remove sensor and bracketing.

(near upper ball joint)

(Above axle, on back side of brake shield)

12. Brakes have been removed , now for the ball joints.

I recommend seperating the tie rod first, then lower ball joint, and last upper ball joint. After seperating them don’t remove them from the knuckle until the last ball joint has been seperated! This will make it much easier on you.

13. Remove cotter pin, and lossen castle nut with 17mm socket from the tie rod (located on the left hand side on passenger side, and right hand side on driver side)

14. Seperate tie rod from knuckle using pitman tool and ratchet. Took me seconds to seperate! Highly recommend you use the pitman tool, and no other methods.

15. Remove cotter pin, and castle nut from lower ball joint (no pics of castle nut, and pin sorry). Then seperate lower ball joint with the pitman tool. Lower ball joint takes a lil bit of effort getting the pitman tool lined up, but its easy after that.

16. Last ball joint, the upper ball joint! Remove pin and castle nut with 17mm WRENCH! A socket will not fit with a large enough ratchet, so use the wrench and a rubber mallet or hammer.

17. Seperate upper ball joint with pitman tool and 17mm WRENCH! Once again the socket and ratchet did not fit. The pitman tool might slip off a few times on the upper, but just go slow and it will pop off with ease.

18. Remove knuckle from upper/lower control arm, and tie rod. You have everything seperated! Take a break if you havn’t done so

This is also a good time to check your axle boots. Mine were torn very bad since my lower ball joint snapped while I was driving, and tore my boot really bad. Follow the article posted above if you have any cracks or gashes in your boot.

19. Check and remove safety ring. I used needle nose pliers to remove the boot, but I didn’t see any ring (my aftermarket ball joint came with a ring)

20. Hammer out ball joint. The reason I didn’t press it out is b/c the press would not fit to remove the ball joint. So get the biggest fucken hammer you have and slam the hell out of it. The ball joint flew when I hammered it out. WARNING: dangerous projectiles.

21. This is to show you the ball joint press that I rented. It is super big, and weighs a ton. I highly recommend you use this tool!

22. Put new ball joint in (no pics), and assemble your ball joint press the same as shown in pictures. I spent alot of time trying to figure out how this press would work with are tiny knuckles, and this was the only way. My press used a 19mm socket. I recommend using air tools for this, as my air tools even seemed to have a hard time at 140 psi.

23. Once everything is in order you will press the ball joint in. If the press starts slipping than lossen it and re-align everything and tighten it again until the ball joint is fully pressed.

24. Install safety ring that is given with the ball joint. I used needle nose pliers, and a flat head screwdriver.

25. TEARS OF JOY!!! YOU ARE DONE!

26. Reality is yes you have to reinstall everything haha. Things I recommend when re-installing. Please buy your self a new axle nut. Mine was in horrible shape, and you wouldn’t want to ruin your threads on your axle (new axle cost alot more $$$$)! Remember to renotch it after installing it.

versa

THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS
You could blow your ass off, so be careful. Read the directions THOROUGHLY before attempting this. Any electrical current passed through the airbag will SET IT OFF!!!

THIS IS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Required items:
1 OBD1 airbag clip from a blown unit or your live airbag
1 Set of jewelers screwdrivers
1 OBD2 airbag

Here is what we are working with. The red connector on the OBD1 clip is the short connector. It shorts the two pins on the airbag to keep any electrical oopsie from happening. The OBD2 clip is self shorting, so no need for the red connector to keep you safe.

Here is the plugs themselves. The red arrows indicate where the screwdriver will be inserted into each clip to release the pins inside the clip (explained later).

This is step 1 for the OBD1 airbag. First you remove the red short connector. WARNING: If this is on a live airbag, any electrical current through those pins will SET IT OFF. If you’re smart like me you’ll use a blown bag and hack off the harness to keep yourself safe.

Step 2: pop the clip retainer open like the pic shows

Step 3: This image shows the orientation the screwdriver to be inserted into the clip. Insert the screwdriver as far in as you can.

Step 4: This shows the screwdriver in its full position. After inserting it in as far as you can, rotate the screwdriver while pulling out on the wire.

Step 5: Remove the second wire. If you are working with a live airbag, tape the two pins together to short them and keep you safe.

Now on to the OBD2 clip.

Step 1: Remove the clip tension keeper by prying where the picture shows on both sides.

Step 2: This simply shows the tensioner removed

Step 3: Wedge out the clip retainer by prying where the picture shows:

Step 4: This simply shows the clip retainer removed:

Step 5: Insert the screwdriver just like the OBD1 clip where the red arrows in the previous picture indicated, rotate the screwdriver and pull on the wires. AGAIN, ANY ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSED BETWEEN THOSE WIRES WILL FIRE THE AIRBAG. Take precautions. Dont stand over the airbag when you do this. Try to protect yourself with safety goggles at minimum!

Now you will notice that the pins on the end of the wires are IDENTICAL! Simply insert the OBD2 pins into the OBD1 clip and put the clip back together.

Now you can have a blinging assed OBD2 “A” symbol airbag in your 94-95 integra like me.

Good luck, and dont blow your ass off.

Things you will need.

Python alarm remote shown on the first page and the Nisan flip key which I got from ebay link below. It takes about 3 weeks to get it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Flip-Folding-Key-Remote-for-NISSAN-INFINITI-3-BUTTON_W0QQitemZ250486984560QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a52300f70

Razor blade
Plastic Repair Epoxy
Plastic Cement glue
File
Hacksaw blade
Small philips screw driver
Drill bits- 5/16, 7/32, 3/32
Sand Paper 80-150 grit if you are painting with plasticote pictured above, otherwise you need 320 grit for primer and 400 for paint.
Here is the picture of the supplies

Ok here it goes.

First you need to take apart the Nissan keyfob and the Python key fob. For the Nissan key you just undo the screws on the back and for the Python you have to pry it open.

Once you get your key fobs apart you can start on either of the key fobs faces.

I would start with the Nissan personally. You will need to cut out the buttons using the top button as the reference meaning leave the top of the button alone and just trim all of the buttons toward the bottom like pictured below with the green line.

When removing the plastic off of the Nissan key fob, make sure to leave about a mm or two on the edges of the vertical green lines shown bellow so that your Python face does not slide through. The picture below also show the approximate size of the Python face being inside the Nissan face.

You can now start on the Python face and trim it. In the pictures below the green lines show the approximate trimming you need to do. One thing to note is that when you trim the Python face you need to trim it so that its size is maximum size allowed to fit inside the Nissan face. The bottom picture shows the sides of the face that you need to shave down in order to fit it between the sides of the Nissan key fob.

Once the two faces fit together, you need to glue them together using the plastic cement pictured in the supplies. While you let it dry you can work on the back. What you need to do there is trim the upper arc a little bellow the sides, you will probably need the circuit boar in the face and then fit it to see how much you need to trim. The foam round part that came with the Nissan key fob will need to be relocated bellow and the lower arc around the battery will need to be removed like shown in the picture below.

Once the glue dries, you need to epoxy the front of the face. You will have something like shown below in green and you need to put plastic epoxy around the edges which is the red in the picture. Once the epoxy hardens a little, take a razor blade and start trimming the access epoxy around everything. Once the epoxy completely dries you need to sand it smooth with 150 or lower grit if using plasticote paint. Once that is done you need to open the hole for the led light. To do this take the 3/32 drill bit and drill straight through, then step up the other drill bits using your fingers and kind of round off the area so its kind of smooth and sand around it to make i even more smoother. Also the second picture is showing the final product with the epoxy sanded.

Once you are done with the retrofitting you are ready to paint it.

For the metal key just cut and trim it to the Nissan key spec and insert it. I dont know how this would work for the chip key people though.

Nissan key