ok so a long time ago i decided to remove the rear seats in my teg. up until recently i just layed the carpet down over the floor but recently i buckled down and tackled building a trunk floor for the teg. i took a fair amount of pics so i thought i’d do a write up because i’ve seen others ask and i could never find a how-to when i did it. doin the floor the way im going to lay out requires no drilling into the floor and if you ever want/need you can reinstall the rear seats very easily. i would also estimate the total weight of everything to be maybe 20lbs. here’s what i did:
2 8′ 1×4
1 8′ 2×4
1 4×8′ sheet of half inch plywood
screws (i used #8 1.5″ screws)
black felt pen
old trunk carpet (makes it MUCH easier)
*new rear trunk bolts (explained later)
metal strapping (you’ll see what i mean later)
hole saw will make life a hell of a lot easier
piano hinge and something to cut it
**i will apologize in advance as i dont have measurements..but a quick check with a measuring tape and you’ll be fine**
first things first what you want to do is start laying down your support pieces. your going to use the 1×4. i chose 1×4’s because i didnt want the floor to be too high and with the 2×4 where i put it, everything works out perfectly flat. your going to want one support goin across the back, two going across where the metal bracket is under the seat (i removed mine), and two shorter ones running in between them as seen in the pics.
*you’ll need to trim the corners so this piece will fit. again just mark it with a pen and cut, this piece is not crucial*
*the second middle support was added later for the optional step 5, but when only adding maybe an extra 1lb or so, it cant hurt..just place the two middle ones so they touch*
now you want to set up the 2×4. it will run on its side at end closest to the . this will be the front-most support for the system.
There it is!
and now all three main supports together:
next use a hole saw to cut a hole in the rear-most support where the two screws at the rear of the car (that go through the floor) are. this is going to serve to anchor the floor to the car. the holes must be big enough to let the bolts go through..but not so big that the washer will go through as well. all else fails you can always spring for a larger washer. the holes are roughly where the blue circle in this pic is:
i found it easiest to lay the wood on top of the screws and hit the wood so the head would leave an indent and just drill there
now its time to start cutting out the top sheet out of the 4×8. this is where the carpet comes in. its not perfect but it will get you very close. you WILL need to trim some off the sides so be prepared with that jigsaw. i found that out of 1 4×8 sheet it was easiest to cut the rear half of the floor, and then the front half, having the cutoff at the middle support in the floor so that both can be screwed down. heres tracing the carpet using the felt:
theres the front half, you can see the rear half in the other corner of the sheet.
and the rear half.
step 5 (optional):
now cut it all out. this next step is optional. i chose to leave my spare tire and accessible even with the floor installed so i needed to make some flip up access panels. for the spare tire i believe it was 18inches wide or so and opened up from the rear of the car. the panel rested on the rear most support so its a few inches back from the edge but still sits on it. install the piano hinge so that panel will flip up
installed the door is JUST big enough to remove the spare. the hinge side rests right above the middle support as well so the screws dont pull out. pre-drill the holes for the screws so they dont split the wood.
for the fuel pump access, i do believe its roughly 14inches wide. same idea your goin to need to cut it out, and hinge it on the middle support of the floor:
and both access doors:
now to install the floors. if you havent noticed, the rear panel doesnt slid in nicely. this worked for me because i just cut it in half vertically around the access panel. then i was able to slide both halves and press fit them in. the front half of the floor wont need to be cut in half as it can just be put in through the doors. your also going to want to drill holes (again using hole saw) above the bolts that are holding down the rear-most support so you can get to them with a ratchet through the top sheet to tighten/loosen them.
and the holes for the bolts:
ok your almost done! now you want to use the tin snips and the strapping. there are bolts that hold the thick metal bar under the front of the back seats. about 6 of them i believe in total, i only used 3 to anchor the 2×4. what you want to do is bolt the metal strapping to the floor and then under the 2×4 and screw it down. you may have to use a dremel to open up the holes in the strapping so the bolt will go through, its time consuming but works. you can see what im talking about here (it doesnt show the bolts, but you’ll see what i mean when you get there). :
now all thats left is to screw the top sheet down to the supports at points you think will work well. theres no real science to it. also, you can choose to carpet it however you want, i just went to end of the roll (bulk carpet store) and used brass thumbtacks to take it to the floor. i think im going to pick up some velcro to use instead so it will look cleaner, but im also redoing the whole floor. i’ve drilled many holes doing my sound system and i just want to clean everything up now that i’ve done it once.
well thats it t-i! any questions just ask and i’ll answer as best i can.
now i’ve been rockin this floor for the last month and a half or so and it hasnt shifted at all. you can use whats left of the 2×4 to make some vertical supports for the front half of the floor but i never did because thats where my amps are so nothing heavy will really lie there.