Breakdown of the color coding:
85——-WHITE
86——-BLACK
87——-YELLOW
87A—–RED
30——-BLUE

Ignore the ignition part there, you are actually wiring it to the accessories.

And if for any reason that’s not clear, here’s the diagram:

Now to set it up in the car.

UNPLUG THE CAR BATTERY

Follow Krisen Type-S’ write up to run the wires for the mirrors to this part of the car.

The 3 relays can be mounted here:

Now you run that 12V wire to a 12 V source. Those of you that have the S2000 Start Button can simply tap into the the relay for the S2000, number 30 on the relay. (Which is why I indicated in the photo above that the relay is there)

The trigger wire (the 3 black ones in the photos), is met to go to the POSITIVE wire for the Cigarette Ligther. (In one of the photos I wrote ignition, so just ignore that)

The switch can be installed at a place of your choice and just tap into the Cigarette Ligther wire.

The yellow wire, which is composed of 5 wires, is the ground. Ground it here, it’s easier this way:

Now plug in the battery, put the key in the ignition and it should do this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZBivKtxaDg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KUdv-712F8

Here’s the new video with the switch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSLXJkTeEhI

Here’s the switch: (Below the OEM coin holder)

Step 1 remove wheel & asses the situation.

step 2 remove all dirt & grim from any surface to be painted w/ a degreaser of choice. spray solvent Scrub, rinse, scrub, rinse, scrub, rinse, using a mild brush. Then dry. (dry using blow dryer or cloth will do.)
\

after a thorough rinse this should be your ending prod.

step 3 polishing here you will need a wire brush & a shit load of elbow grease, unless you are using a drill as i did, w/ a coarse wire brush NOT FINE OR ANYTHING HEAVY! you will damage the caliper by digging into the material. Polish to desired finish

here is a finished sample (if you want it chrome/polished stop here & add a clear coat…high heat/ metalcast clear)

Step 4 mask off areas that you do not want paint on if you are to lazy to remove the caliper as i was. Then begin w/ a light misty coat…proceed with another coat @ a minimum of 10 min. intervals depending on climate.

TOOLS NEEDED
10mm Socket
8mm Deep Socket
Phillips Screw Driver
Wire Cutters
Dremel or Drill
Butt Connectors or Solder
Electrical Tape

PARTS NEEDED
New or used, these are the parts you will need to do the conversion. www.Acuraautomotiveparts.org has diagrams, part numbers and good pricing.

Taillight Brackets
71541-S6M-010 BEAM, R. RR. BUMPER (UPPER) – $15.62
71591-S6M-010 BEAM, L. FR. BUMPER (UPPER) – $15.62

Reverse Sockets
33513-S2A-003 SOCKET (T10) (x2) – $4.92
Note: You will also need the plugs that plug into the sockets, as the 02-04 plugs are different. Using the part number for the sockets listed above, call your Honda/Acura dealer and tell them you need the plugs for these sockets. You can purchase them with wire for an additional charge.

Taillights
33501-S6M-A51 LAMP UNIT, R. TAIL – $183.14
33551-S6M-A51 LAMP UNIT, L. TAIL – $183.14

Mud Flap Base Cover (Different than 02-04.)
74551-S6M-J00 COVER, R. RR. FENDER – $12.61
74591-S6M-J00 COVER, L. RR. FENDER – $12.61

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove your stock bumper.
- Remove the screws holding the bumper to the quarter panel
- Remove Mud guards
- Remove plastic clips on underside of bumper cover.
- Remove bumper by unsnapping the sides from the body. Unplug license plate light. Pull bumper off.

2. Remove Taillights
- Unplug all wiring
- Remove 4 8mm nuts on each taillght.
- Remove 10mm nuts securing taillight brackets.
- Remove taillights.

3. 05-06 Lights
There are two options when installing the lights. You can saw off one of the mounting posts on the taillight. Or, you can drill a hole for the mounting post. The 05-06 lights mount differently.
- Place the taillight up to the car and mark where hole needs to be drilled. See the picture for details. I used toothpaste on the end of the mounting post to show me where I needed to drill. See photo where pen is pointing.

4. Install Taillights
- Secure taillights with 4 8mm nuts.
- Secure 10mm nuts on bracket

5. Wiring
- Disconnect taillight wiring harness on passenger side. Find your turn signal plug (see photo) and cut the plug off, leaving enough wire. Use approximately 6-8 inches of wire and lengthen wiring to the signal plug.
- Using new plug for reverse sockets, attach plug. No extra wire should be needed.
- Electrical tape wires and re-secure to vehicle.
Note: The drives side plugs/wires are long enough to reach all sockets.

6. Sockets/Bulbs
- Install all sockets in appropriate places. Plug in wiring.
- You will have one extra plug. The 05-06 only required 1 running/brake light whereas the 02-04 had 2.
- Turn on running lights and emergency flashers to ensure all bulbs are working properly.
- Troubleshoot any problems. You should not have any.

7. Mud guard base cover
- Install this cover on both sides, with the one innermost screw.
Note: After completing the conversion and having fitment issues with the mud guards and bumper, I researched part numbers. This cover/piece was changed in 05-06. It in not a mandatory piece if you choose not to use it.

8. Bumper Install
- Install your new freshly painted rear bumper. Snap it in and install screws. Check for fitment issues.

Additional Parts/Instructions. – Some people have opted to use the brake/running light socket off the 05-06. With slight mofification to the 05-06 Taillight, the 02-04 Socket will fit. Simply shave off the tabs.

Ever wanted daytime running lights on your USDM Acura RSX, but can’t seem to find any do-it-yourself articles to execute the installation? Most newer cars have DRLs installed at the factory. The added visibility during the day without compromising instrument visibility is a safety feature that everyone can benefit from. Thanks to the original concept by Andrew of Alavigne.net, OEM-styled DRLs are possible through the Hamsar 45060 DRL relay unit instead of backbreaking attempt to rewire everything using the Honda daytime running light relay (part #: 38260-SM4-C03).

2002-2004 models
04321-S2G-305 – CONNECTOR (3P 321F)
04320-SP0-K10 – SUB-CORD (1.25) (10 PIECES) (RED)

2002-2004 RSX owners, double check and ensure the parts and part #s are accurate before you order the parts. I make no warranty that the part #s are accurate.

2005-2006 models
04321-SH3-305 – CONNECTOR (2P 110F) (5 PIECES)

04320-SP0-N00 – PIGTAIL (1.25) (10 PIECES) (RED)

Before you insert the pigtails into the connector terminals, make sure the orientation and direction of the terminal joints are correct.

Take the pigtails and secure the terminal joint into the terminals of each connector to create a brand new replacement high beam connector like this:

Top off the connector with a corresponding terminal cap:

Create a second replica high beam connector for a total of one pair:

Again, to save on cost, you can purchase pre-assembled 9005 (or H4/H7 for ‘02-’04 owners) female connectors w/pigtails!

Next pair up the newly created replica high beam connectors with the OEM connectors for a side by side comparison. Take a piece of masking tape and write down the wire color identification on the OEM connectors and then apply the tape to the corresponding wires of the replica connectors. We’ll be using the replica connectors as if they are the OEM connectors, leaving the actual OEM connectors unscathed. To access the right OEM connector, you will have to remove the power steering fluid reservoir by unbolting a 10mm bolt:

Here are the left and right connectors with proper labeling. We’re simply making replica OEM high beam connectors with correct wire polarity.

Right headlight/passenger side replica high beam connector:

Left headlight/driver side replica high beam connector

Once the pigtails are secured snuggly into the connectors and you’ve identified the wire colors of your replica connectors, we’re good to go. Take a 14-16 AWG fork crimp-on terminal and crimp it onto the pigtails identified as RED/BLU on both replica connectors.

Take a 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect and crimp it on the remaining pigtails identified as RED and RED/YEL:

Take a 3 feet 14 AWG patch wire and then strip 1/4″ from both end, using a wire stripped. Then crimp a 14-16 AWG male quick disconnect onto each end:

Connect one end of the 3 feet patch wire to the wire identified as “RED” on the replica left high beam connector and connect the other end to the wire identified as “RED/YEL” on the replica right high beam replica connector. By doing this, you’ve effectively connected the RED/YEL wire of the replica left high beam connector with the RED wire of the replica right high beam connector, forming a single bridged connection.

Attach a 14-16 AWG T-Tap somewhere along the bridged patch wire, preferably close to the left headlight. Then finally, make a 2 feet patch wire and attach a female quick disconnect on one end and a male quick disconnect on the other end. Connect the male quick disconnect to the T-Tap crimped onto the bridged patch wire and label this new patch wire with a masking tape as “30 AR”:

Unplug both OEM high beam connectors from the high beam bulbs, then plug in the replica high beam connectors onto the high beam bulbs. Ground the RED/BLU wire from each of the high beam replica connectors by securing them onto a bolt along the chassis:

We’re done with the high beam connectors for now.

1d. Tap into the IGN wire

Take the 3 feet GRN wire from the Hamsar DRL relay and run it from the engine bay and into the cabin. This is the hardest part of the install. Start by removing the two tapping screw from the left inner fender liner:

Run the GRN wire across the engine bay and through the left fender:

(image shows GRN wire with male quick disconnect crimped on, do not do this as you’ll see why)

Pull the inner fender liner and look for a grommet where your hood release cable passes through. Pull this grommet out of its socket:

Then insert the GRN wire from the Hamsar DRL relay unit through the grommet and insert as much of the GRN wire as you can:

Re-install the grommet back into its socket. You may need to use a flat head screwdriver for assistant:

Inside the cabin, remove the kick panel covering the hood release latch and pull the green wire you’ve just inserted:

Most likely, the GRN wire will not reach the ignition switch. I attached a 1 foot patch wire onto the end of the GRN wire, then crimped a male quick disconnect onto the attached patch wire.

Remove the ignition cover and find the BLK/YEL wire. This is the Ignition wire. It becomes active when the ignition is turn to the II position. Once the connections are completed, simply putting your key to the II position will activate the DRLs.

You want to take the male ended part of the patch wire and tap it into the BLK/YEL ignition wire:

a.) You can put attach a 10-12 AWG female T-Tap onto the BLK/YEL wire and complete the connection with the patch wire this way (safest).

b.) You can tap into another wire source that also utilizes the BLK/YEL wire, i.e. an alarm system (illustrated).

Whichever method you used to tap the patch wire into the ignition wire, make sure no metal terminals are exposed as you may inadvertently cause a short and blow a fuse. Tape up any exposed terminals (especially if the male disconnect is not insulated) and set the patch wire aside.

II. High beam dummy male connector

To activate the high beams under normal high beam mode or flash-to-pass mode, we need to send an electrical current to the relays that will cause it to draw full power from the battery when the combination switch is set in either high beam or flash-to-pass.

Again, you can ghetto-rig this setup by cutting or splicing a patch wire to the RED/BLU wire that’s attached to the left OEM high beam connector.

What I did instead, for a clean install, was ordered a set of pre-assembled 9005 male connectors from eBay. 2002-2004 owners, you’ll need the H7 connector. You only need to make use of one dummy high beam male connector.

H7 male connectors example [for 2002-2004 RSX models]

Then I plugged the left OEM high beam connector into the dummy socket to check the position and identify the polarity of the wires:

I then attached a 1.5 feet patch wire with a 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect crimped to one end, onto the end of the pigtail that is aligned with the RED/BLU wire from the OEM connector with a butt connector, labeling it as “HIGH BEAM RED/BLU 85 AR”.

I attached a 1.5 feet patch wire, crimped a 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect on the end, to the remaining pigtail with another butt crimp connector and labeled that pigtail as “RED/YEL 86 AR 86 HS”:

Attach a T-Tap to the wire you’ve just labeled “RED/YEL 86 AR 86 HS” close to the end of the wire, near the female quick disconnect.

For 2002-2004 models, you can take a non insulated male blade quick disconnect and crimp it onto a 14 AWG patch wire and insert it into the terminal of the left OEM high beam connector that corresponds to the RED/BLU wire, and repeat the process for the RED/YEL wire instead of making or buying premade dummy male connectors.

Once you’ve completed this step, let the patch wire hang on a visible part of the vehicle’s chassis. We’ll complete the connection in a few steps down.

We are done with this step.

III. Making the connections

By now, you should have labeled four wires:

• 30 AR
• 87 AR
• HIGH BEAM RED/BLU 85 AR
• RED/YEL 86 AR 86 HS

You’re probably wondering what the AR and HS stands for. AR stands for Automotive Relay. HS stands for Hamsar and refers to the Hamsar DRL relay.

Before proceeding, strip 1/4″ from the end of the ORG wire that is coming out of the Hamsar DRL relay plug and then attach a 14-16 AWG male quick disconnect to the end of the ORG wire. Crimp a 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect to the end of the WHT wire. For the BLK and RED wires, leave them alone as they already have end terminals pre-crimped:

Depending on where you mount the relay, you may want to shorten the Hamsar DRL relay wires for a clean connection. I shortened the WHT and ORG wires to 6″.

Connecting:

1. Take the wire you’ve labeled 30 AR and connect it to pin 30 of the automotive relay.
2. Take the GRN wire (pin 85) of the Hamsar DRL relay and connect it to the BLK/YEL ignition wire if you haven’t already done so in step 1d.
3. Take the wire you’ve labeled HIGH BEAM RED/BLU 85 AR and connect it to pin 85 of the automotive relay.
4. Take the wire you’ve labeled RED/YEL 86 AR 86 HS and connect it to pin 86 of the automotive relay.
5. Take the ORG wire from the Hamsar DRL relay (pin 86) and connect it to the T-Tap on the wire labeled RED/YEL 86 AR 86 HS.
6. Ground the fork terminal connect from the BLK wire of the Hamsar DRL relay to the vehicle chassis.
7. Take the WHT wire (pin 30) of the Hamsar DRL relay (with female quick disconnect) and connect it to pin 87a of the automotive relay.
8. Create a 2 feet 14 AWG patch wire and strip 1/4″ from both ends and crimp both ends with a 14-16 AWG female quick disconnect. Label this wire 87 AR.
9. Take the inline fuse holder with a 15A blade fuse in the holder and crimp a 14-16 AWG male quick disconnect to one end while crimping a fork terminal connect to the other end:

Connect the fork terminal connect end of the 15A inline fuse holder to the positive terminal of the battery. Then take the male quick disconnect end of the 15A inline fuse holder and connect it to one female end of the patch wire labeled 87 AR. Take the remaining end of the patch wire labeled 87 AR and connect it to pin 87 of the automotive relay.

Take the RED wire from the Hamsar DRL relay. The RED wire should contain an inline fuse holder with a 10A blade fuse in the holder and is connected to pin 87a of the Hamsar DRL relay. Take the ring terminal and connect it to the positive terminal of the battery.

The finalized interconnectivity of wires between the high beam connectors, automotive relay and Hamsar DRL relay should appear similar to this:

(Click to enlarge diagram)

What this all means

When you turn your key to the II position of the ignition, pin 85 of the Hamsar DRL relay is energized. This draws an electrical current from the battery through pin 87a and sends it to pin 30 of the Hamsar DRL relay (the circuit that sends out reduced currents), which then gets transferred at 60% intensity to pin 87a of the automotive relay. The 60% intensity current then energizes pin 30 of the automotive relay, which then powers the high beams at reduced 60% intensity.

Now if you operate the high beams or engage in flash-to-pass mode, pin 86 of the automotive relay becomes energized and the circuit between pin 30 and pin 87 of the automotive relay is bridged and the DRL unit is grounded (powered off). Now instead of receiving 60% current through pin 87a of the automotive relay, the high beams are now powered at 100% intensity by the battery through the bridge formed by pin 30 and pin 87 of the automotive relay.

IV. Testing the connections

Before we wrap everything up, let’s make sure the connections are correct. Make sure all the ground terminal connects are properly grounded to a metallic surface on the vehicle chassis (3 wires). Make sure all power terminal are properly connected to the positive terminal of the battery (2 wires).

Ensure that the light combination switch works properly with the car OFF. Test the high beam, low beam and flash to pass switches to ensure proper operation. Once you’ve confirmed that the lights operate normally while the car is OFF, take your key and insert it into the ignition.

Turn it to the II position and step out of your car to look at your headlights. Wait 5 seconds, the DRL should turn on – that is, your high beams should turn on, but at 60% of the intensity:

Now if you’ve gone this far, turn on your low beams. Your DRL should now be off:

Turn on your high beams with your low beams on. Your high beam should operate at 100% intensity:

Now turn off your high beams but allow your low beams to remain on. Hit flash-to-pass and your high beam should operate at 100% intensity. You may need an assistant to confirm this.

V. Clean-Up and other considerations

If you have loose wires, you may want to tie them up and organize them using zip ties. Make sure both fuses (10a and 15a) are easily accessible in the event that you need to replace them. What I did was take a insulated wire loom and tuck the exposed wire from the mod into it, then zip tie the wire loom onto the vehicle chassis when needed:

If you are driving around and the DRL turns off or you notice that it flickers, then one of two things could’ve happened. The wire connections and/or crimps you’ve made are not secure or your grounding is loose. You may want to check the wire labeled “30 AR” that’s connected to pin 30 of the automotive relay since it is the primary wire that activates the high beams. Or two, your automotive relay is poor quality. Lastly, check your ground and the fuses.

DRL on with low beams

To have the DRL on while the low beams are on, like the DC2R style, simply do not connect the ORG wire.

DRL w/low beams:

High beam mode:

Video demonstration:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyddEUHc8C8&feature=player_embedded

Here is a simple guide that will help you install genuine Honda Access JDM door visors on your Acura RSX. For those that are not familiar with the Honda Access visors, positioning the lower clips on the window frame may be a bit tricky.

The install took me longer than I anticipated. Much of the time was invested into perfecting the mounting hole for the lamp itself.

I’ve seen ‘02-’04 Acura RSX with the rear fog light installed. To date, I have not seen an ‘05-’06 Acura RSX with the rear fog light installed. So, if you’re wondering what it looks like on an ‘05+ RSX, click on the following image for an enlarged version:

I decided to install the rear fog light because I drive through the desert and central California quite often. Depending on the time of the year, the central coast get insanely foggy (especially during the summer). I’ve almost rear ended a silver Miata because the fog was so dense up north. Since I’m traveling further past the central coast in 1 week (past Klamath, CA), and it is currently rainy and foggy season in that region, this mod was executed at just the right time.

To kick the mod up a notch, I’ve added a rear fog light indicator light; basically adding an additional SMD LED into the cavity of the gauge cluster where the high beam LED sits. When I have my rear fog lights on, the high beam indicator will light up yellow, wired so that the rear fog light can only be turned on if the head lights are turned on (just like OEM front fog lights). The whole setup is controlled using gslowr’s ‘07-’08 Honda Fit Sport combination switch DIY guide:

A modified after market OEM-style fog light wiring harness as the main wiring harness:

An extra rear license plate light sub-wire with male and female bullet terminals crimped on and routed through the 28mm hole plug on the rear firewall for an extra clean, OEM-style install:

Complete DIY guide will be available after January 4th. I’ll be away for the holiday, but will continue to post trip-related entries until then.

Here’s a video of the rear fog light in operation:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p1azGa9oBg&feature=player_embedded

In Europe, vehicles are legally required to have rear fog light installed much like daytime running lights are legally required in Canada. Rear fog light will enhance the visibility of your vehicle to the drivers behind you under adverse weather conditions, i.e. snow, rain, or fog. This guide will show you how to execute an OEM-like install that utilizes an after market OEM style RSX fog light wiring harness in conjunction with an ‘07-’08 Honda Fit combination switch to control the EDM DC2 rear fog light on your Acura RSX.

As with all my recent DIY guides, I try to keep the installation of non-OEM options appear as OEM as possible. With this in mind, the steps involved are meticulous and detailed. If you do not care for OEM-spec installation and just want to get the fog light functional, you can can simply skip the steps and optional parts and just wire the fog light as depicted in the diagram provided below. Please read this entire guide thoroughly before purchasing parts. I wrote this guide for educational purposes to reference the effort involved in this project. Use this guide at your own risk.

EDM/UKDM DC2 rear fog light installation guide

For this install, we’ll be using the ‘07-’08 Honda Fit Sport combination switch with built-in fog light switch based on ClubRSX member gslowr’s original concept. The Honda Fit combination switch will be a direct swap with the RSX combination switch. Utilizing the wiring harness from an after market OEM-style fog lights, which can be purchased on eBay for $50.00, we’ll wire it up so that it functions like OEM-spec. That is, the rear fog light will only turn on if the front head lights are turned on (just like OEM-spec front fog lights). But unlike OEM front fog lights, the rear fog light will not turn off if your high beams are activated. Expect to spend about 2 hours on this modification, wiring and rear bumper cutting included.

Again, for those that are electrically well-versed, you can skip to the circuit diagram at the bottom of this guide and perform the installation at your own pace or method.

This guide assumes that you have OEM Acura fog lights with OEM wiring harness installed.

Legality in the state of California

For the complete legality scoop regarding rear fog lamps usage in the state of California, refer to CVC 24602. The only item that you should be concerned about is clause #5, which states that an amber pilot (indicator) light is lighted when the rear fog light is turned on. Easy to wire up to an LED, or follow the optional rear fog light indicator mod at the bottom of this guide. Obviously if you reside in a different state or country, you should consult your local vehicle code for legality.

Parts needed:

1x ‘07-’08 Honda Fit Sport combination switch, part #: 35255-S5K-F12

1x Acura RSX license plate light sub-wire, part #: 32113-S6M-A00

1x EDM spec ‘94-’01 Honda Integra rear fog light, part #: 34450-SV2-G01

1x EDM spec ‘94-’01 Honda Integra rear fog light inner garnish, part #: 71511-ST7-G00

1x EDM spec ‘94-’01 Honda Integra rear fog light outer trim, part #: 71512-ST7-G00

2x Honda 0.50 female pigtails (shown taken from OEM side marker connector).
Part #: 04320-SP0-X10, sold in a bag of 10 pcs.

1x After market OEM-style fog light wiring harness (or 4-pin 30A Bosch style relay with pig tails and 10A blade fuse)

1x 2-pin male connector w/pigtails (part #: 04321-ST5-305, sold in a bag of 5 pcs; male pigtails part #: 04320-SP0-G00, sold in bag of 10 pcs)

1x Rotary tool w/cut-off wheel and grinder/sanding bit

1x 30′ roll of 16 awg wire

1x roll of painter’s masking tape

1x Sharpie marker or ball point pen

1x Wire stripper / cutter

6x Male & female 16 awg quick disconnects (3 of each)

2x Male & female 14-16 awg bullet terminals (1 of each)

1x 14-16 awg quick splice connector

1x roll of wire loom

1x roll of vinyl electrical tape

Templating and cutting your rear bumper

1. To create the template which you’ll use to cut the mounting hole on your rear bumper, we’ll use the outer trim as a reference. This is the piece where the actual rear fog light sits in and is screwed onto. Trace the lip of the trim on a piece of paper. Next, cut 1/4″ inside and along the line you’ve just traced:

2. Take the rear fog light outer trim and test fit it into your template. You may need to make a few changes to ensure a snug fit. Once you’ve determined that the template is good, place it on the section of your rear bumper where you would like to mount the rear fog light and tape the top part of the template onto the rear bumper:

You can use the preceding as a general guide to mount the rear fog light on your ‘05-’06 RSX. The ‘02-’04 RSX models has a different rear bumper so if you’re installing it on an earlier RSX model, you may have to modify the measurements to suit your application.

3. Lift up the template (still held onto the rear bumper with tape) and apply a liberal amount of painter’s masking tape over the entire area of the rear bumper where you want to mount the rear fog light. Next, take a pen or a Sharpie and trace over the template cutout onto the taped surface of the rear bumper:

Stand back and examine the template affixed to your rear bumper. If you are satisfied with the location and alignment, it’s ready to begin cutting.

4. It is imperative that you wear safety goggles. DO NOT EVEN ATTEMPT TO CUT IF YOU DO NOT HAVE SAFETY GOGGLES ON! Start by cutting inside the traced line using a Dremel, AllTrade or similar rotary cutting tool equipped with a cut-off disc:

Be ready to use up to 5 or more fiberglass cut-off discs for the cutting (less if you use cut-off discs designed to cut through metal). If you don’t change them when they are overheated or worn, the disc will break and fly at you. It is important that you wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from the flying debris. Another thing to note is the melted plastic flakes flying off the cutting job is also very hot. I recommend wearing a sweater to avoid minute-burns. Once the base pattern is cut, you can switch the bit to a grinding to level out the curved corners:

Finish with a sanding disc for a clean presentation. Test fit the outer trim. If the hole is too small, you can use a grinder bit and gradually widen up the hole. REMEMBER: It’s always a good idea to start by cutting a smaller hole – you can always widen it up later if it’s too small. If you cut an oversized hole from the start, it could leave to mounting problems. The key point is to take your time and pace yourself. It took me about 1 hour to perfect the hole.

5. Remove the tailgate panel by pulling it upward with slight force. It’s secured onto the rear frame with 4 plug clips:

6. Remove your rear bumper.

Mounting the rear fog light

1. Insert the rear fog light outer trim into the hole you’ve just cut:

2. Pair up the inner garnish from the inner side of your rear bumper with the rear fog light outer trim you’ve just inserted. Align the 3 notches and key slot, then press the two pieces together until they snap into place to ensure a secure mount. If you’re installing on the left side, the notch key should be on the lower left corner:

3. Finally, insert the rear fog lamp into the outer trim and secure the lamp into the housing with two screws. Alternatively, you can use two nuts and bolts in place of the screw. You’ll mount the nut from the inside of the rear bumper. This will prevent the rear fog light from being easily removed:

If you are going to use nuts and bolts, remove the two original spring clips from the inner garnish.The bolts used were M5 .7, 50 threads, the nuts used were M5 .8 and the washers used were M5:

For extra security, you may use two nuts per bolt instead of one. The drawback is you’ll have to remove the rear bumper every time you need to change the bulb (unlikely), but the security and peace of mind is well worth the extra effort.

4. This is what it should look like so far with the rear fog light mounted onto the rear bumper:

Flush mount:

Making the connections

The reason why we’re using an after market OEM-style fog light wiring harness is because it will simplify the installation. Plus everything you need is already part of the harness; no need to purchase additional parts. All you need to do is rearrange a few terminal joints and make a few wire splices to lengthen the power wire. For folks that had to replace OEM fog lights (as I did) with an after market set due to cracked lens caused from road debris, this is a prime opportunity to use the after market fog light wire harness if you happen to save it. For those that do not have an after market wiring harness, follow the circuit diagram below and create your own harness using a few cuts of 16 awg wire, a 10A fuse and a 4-pin Bosch relay (with pigtail).

1. Remove the steering column covering by removing 3 Philips screw on the lower cover and separating the top cover from the bottom cover.

2. Remove two small Philips screws that is securing the combination switch onto the steering column:

3. With gentle force, push the combination switch to the left and out. You may need to pull it out with your hands or push it out with a screw driver.

4. Unplug the combination switch 16-pin plug:

5. Attach a female or male quick disconnect onto each of the two pigtail you’ve acquired. I used one female and one male quick disconnect to distinguish the connections:

6. Insert the two pigtails into the terminals on the plug as shown. Make sure they are in the correct orientation before insertion. Incorrect orientation can result in a damaged pigtail or plug, or both! If you are not sure, just look at the adjacent pigtail.

This is what the inserted pigtails will look like, note the correct location:

7. Crimp a quick connect to the positive wire (usually a RED/YEL wire) from the after market wiring harness then connect it to one of the pigtails that was inserted into the 16-pin combination switch plug on step #6. It doesn’t matter which one, but take note of the pigtail you actually make the connection with. This wire is directly connected to pin #86 (or 85) of the fog light relay.

>Take the remaining pigtail (the one that is not connected to the RED/YEL wire on step #7) you’ve inserted and splice it with the BLU/RED wire (pin #4 on the plug). You can use a T-Tap for the splicing.

The pin where the BLU/RED wire is plugged into becomes active when you turn your head lights on. If your Fit fog light switch is in the “ON” position while your head lights are on, the 12v from the BLU/RED wire will trigger the coil in the fog light relay, completing the circuit between pin 30 and pin 87. Alternatively, you can tap this wire into the IGN (ignition) wire to use as a trigger, but to remain OEM-style, this is what we’ll do for the guide.

8. Next, look for a thick WHT/RED wire in the after market fog light harness; it may simply be RED or a WHT wire color depending on the harness you use. This wire should be approximately 12-14 awg thick connected to one blade of a 30a blade fuse while another thinner wire, about 16 awg thick, is connected to the other blade of the same fuse. The end of the thicker WHT/RED wire will terminate in a brown 1-pin female plug. If you have OEM or after market OEM-style fog lights installed, cut off the brown plug and cap off the wire with an end-terminal. Then splice this wire to the OEM fog light wire power wire in your under dash fuse box with a quick splice tap.

Since the wire will be powering a 21w bayonet bulb instead of two 55w H11 bulbs, replace the 30a fuse in the fuse holder with a 10a fuse.

9. Ground the BLK wire from the after market fog light harness.

10. The main wiring connection is complete. You may want to make temporary connections to the rear fog lamp to ensure that the connections you’ve made in the preceding steps work before completing the installation:

To do this, ground the black wire from the rear fog lamp and connect the power wire to the BLU (or BLU/RED) wire from the after market fog light harness – the wire that is directly connected to pin 87 of the fog light relay. You may want to make the temporary connections with a pair of test leads. Note: If using test leads, connect the positive wire first and be extremely careful not to accidentally short out the positive clamp by inadvertently grounding it to any metallic surface! This can damage your test leads, your rear fog light, your combination switch and start a fire. Turn on your head lights, then turn on the fog light control on the Fit switch. If connections are correct, your rear fog lamp should light up. Turn off your head lights while leaving the fog light control on the Fit switch in the “ON” position. The rear fog lamp should turn off.

11a. Cut off the 2-pin brown female connector on the license plate sub-wire and crimp the corresponding bullet terminals to the wires (i.e. female bullet terminal to the RED/YEL wire and male bullet terminal to the BLK wire):

This will plug right into the rear fog light without any modification done to the rear fog light itself.

11b. Locate the 28mm hole plug on the left side of the rear firewall. If you want to install the fog light to the right side of the bumper, then use the 28mm hole plug on the right hand side, near the exhaust:

You don’t have to remove it. What you want to do is take a 10mm drill bit and drill through the center of the plug. If the hole is too small, carefully grind the hole to widen it up. You want to make the hole just big enough to snugly fit the rear license plate light sub-wire:

11c. Next, insert the bullet disconnect end of the license plate light sub-wire through the hole drilled from step 11b from the cargo:

Pull the bullet disconnect through the hole drilled onto the 28mm hole plug until the grommet part of it squeezes through. Continue pulling until it will not go further:

12. Take the BLU (or BLU/RED) fog light power extension wire from the after market fog light harness and cut it in half at the center. Attach approximately 10 feet of 16 awg wire between the cut wires. This will extend the wire to about 15 feet in length. Wrap up the newly extended wire with additional wire loom and tape it up:

13. Take the female brown plug from the wire you’ve extended in step 11 and plug it into the BLU wire that’s trailing from the fog light relay.

14. Route the extension wire through the driver side door sill,

through the driver side rear quarter panel (you may want to remove the speaker grill for easy access to the wire),

through the driver side rear cargo panel,

and finally into the tailgate panel which you’ve removed earlier.

15. This step is entirely optional. You can splice the BLU (or BLU/RED) extension wire with the RED/YEL wire from the license plate light sub-wire for a direct connection, and ground the BLK wire to any metallics surface. Or to keep it OEM-style, cut off the brown plug at the end of the BLU (or BLU/RED) extension wire. Attach a male 0.50 Honda pigtail (part #: 04320-SP0-G00) onto the cut wire. Take another male pigtail and splice approximately 1.5 feet of 16 awg wire to the end of it (this will be the ground wire).

Take a 2-pin male connector (part #: 04321-ST5-305) and align it with the license plate sub-wire 2-pin female connector and note the position of the RED/YEL and BLK wire (i.e. BLU aligns with RED/YEL and BLK with BLK):

Insert the pigtails into the male 2-pin connector accordingly:

then plug the license plate light sub-wire into this newly created 2-pin male plug:

Connect a fork or ring terminal connect to the end of the BLK wire then ground it to the factory tailgate ground bolt. Wrap the wires in wire loom and tape the looms with black vinyl electrical tape for a clean OEM appearance:

This is how the completed connection should look like at the rear bumper end. Clean and OEM looking. Test the rear fog light one last time, then make the final connections and reinstall your rear bumper:

Plug the bullet terminals from the rear fog light into the corresponding bullet terminals on the license plate light sub-wire, then cover the connectors with a 3 inch piece of wire loom. Tape up the wire loom securely with vinyl electrical tape:

This step is important because the rear wheels kick up a lot of gunk from the road and tosses it into the cavity of the rear bumper. If it rains, water picked up from the rear wheels can cause an unwanted short if the wires are not weatherproofed thoroughly. This is another reason why all electrical connections need to be fused and relayed.

To give you an idea of how far dirt and gunk gets kicked up, look at the debris stuck onto the inside of the rear bumper and how close the rear fog light is to the debris:

Rear bumper reinstalled with rear fog light mounted and wired, ready for use:

Completed install

Some shots of the rear fog light installed and operating:

Are rear fog lights effective?

Yes, especially when you drive in an area with a lot of fog, rain or snow. Below are several pictures of my RSX on Briceland Thorn Road in Garberville/Shelter Cove/Whitethorn, CA; ~150 feet away with thick fog (according to my Garmin hand-held GPS).

Here’s a photo taken with just the parking lights on:

Here’s another photo with the rear fog light on:

Since I drive through the desert and through the coastal fogs from central to northern California quite often, this is a highly functional and beneficial mod.

Most, if not all of Honda vehicles in other parts of the world are shipped from the factory with OEM side marker lights. To add OEM side marker lights to USDM vehicles, we can either swap out JDM fenders with the side marker light mounting holes pre-cut, or custom cut the holes ourself. Using Lombard0’s side marker template, this guide will show you how to install the side marker lights as close to OEM-spec as possible.

Most folks install side marker lights by cutting off the 2-pin female plug from the OEM side marker lights and splicing the two wires from the lights to the corresponding wires of the front signal lights. You can do this if you want, but the guide will show you how to execute an OEM-style install without the need to modify anything from the OEM side markers. To do this, you need a few parts from Honda.

Parts required

2x Honda OEM side marker lights (part #: 32118-S6M-900; amber for ‘02-’04 Acura RSX, clear for ‘05-’06 Acura RSX)

2x 194/168 amber wedge bulbs

2x 2-pin male connectors, part #: 04321-ST5-305 (OPTIONAL)

4x Honda pigtails (male; part #: 04320-SP0-G00) (OPTIONAL)

2x 18 awg T-Taps

2x 18 awg spade (aka fork) terminal connects

2x 18 awg male quick disconnects

1x roll of 18 awg wire

1x roll black vinyl electrical tape

1x roll of painter’s masking tape

1x roll wire loom

1x safety goggle

1x fine point Sharpie or ball point pen

1x rotary tool with metal cut-off discs (used Dremel EZ-409 1.5″ cut-off wheel but any fiberglass reinforced disc will do)

1x touch-up paint

1x Philips screw driver

1x Lombard0’s side marker template, download it HERE

1x 3′ of string  (OPTIONAL)

Preparing the template

Lombard0’s template contains the template for both the driver side and passenger side fender. Simply cut the template in half, at the center and use them accordingly.

1. Mask off the fender you’ll be working on with painter’s masking tape. For this guide, we’ll start with the passenger side.

2. Print out Lombard0’s template and carefully cut out the side marker template.

3. OPTIONAL: Take a 3′ of string and align it so that it’s parallel with the accent mark on the door, then tape up the string in place. This will be your guide to aligning Lombard0’s template correctly. If you are in a well lit area and are confident, you can simply use just your eyes to align the template with the accent line.

4. Take Lombard0’s template and align it with the fender line and accent line:

5. Carefully trace the side marker cut-out from the template onto the masked surface of your fender:

6. Double check to make sure the tracing is clear and precise, then remove the string and template from the fender.

7. Chances are, your side marker lights did not include bulbs. Twist the connector off the side marker light and insert a 194/168 amber wedge bulb into the socket. Set the connector and harness aside.

8. Install a metal cut-off disc on your rotary tool, put on your safety goggles and proceed to the next step.

9. Partially remove the inner fender lining by removing these two self-tapping screws:

Cutting the fender

1. Begin cutting the inner rectangle from the side marker cut-out as illustrated with your rotary tool set at high speed:

Take your time to ensure that the cut is precise. When cutting, you want to cut just a bit INSIDE of the traced line. If the hole you’ve cut is too small, you can always widen it up later. If you cut the hole too wide from the start, it can lead to mounting problems.

2. Next, cut out the left and right notches at medium speed.

Right notch cut:

Left notch cut:

3. Carefully grind out the rounded corners by slowly using the cut-off wheel set at medium speed in a stroking motion.

4. The untuned side marker mounting hole:

If you want, you can attach a sanding bit to your rotary tool and sand off the edges of the hole. If not, test fit the side marker light to make sure that it fits snug into the hole. Do not mount the side marker light just yet, simply place it into the hole.

Make sure to insert the side marker light in the correct orientation. You may have to make several widening and smoothing attempts before you can mount the side marker lights securely. Generally, the entire cutting process, including widening and smoothing the hole takes approximately 25 minutes per fender.

5. If the hole is too small, widen it up before continuing. Once you’ve confirmed the hole you’ve just cut compliments the side marker, apply a coat of touch up paint along the exposed metal edge.

Then wait an hour for the paint to dry. At this point, you can start on the opposite fender.

Here’s a video of the cutting process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUbF_zXRgYA&feature=player_embedded
6. Once the touch-up paint dries completely, partially remove your inner fender liner.

7. Snap the side marker light (with wiring harness disconnected) in place into the mounting hole, then reach your hand behind the fender and squeeze the pinch tab on the side marker light while pulling it in from the inside and using your other hand to push it in from the outside. You can use a small flathead screwdriver to push in the pinch tab instead.The side marker light should snap into place:

(if you still have masking tape on your fender, now is the time to peel them off)

8. Reach behind the fender and plug the light socket from the wiring harness into the side marker light.

If you have a 2002-2004 RSX:

• Route the 2-pin plug end of the wire through the large hole on the vehicle’s chassis, then plug rubber grommet into the large hole on the chassis frame. Plug the translucent wire tie clip onto into the smaller hole on the chassis that’s about 6″ apart and adjacent from the larger grommet hole.

If you have a 2005-2006 RSX:

• The holes described in the preceding steps for the 2002-2004 models are occupied by a similar harness:
  
  Simply pull the wiring harness’ 2-pin plug outside of the fender through the openings near the hood hinge.

And the 2-pin plug should extend into the engine bay as follow:

(shown with OPTIONAL 2-pin male connector w/pigtails)

Making the connections

You can cut off the 2-pin plugs from the side marker and directly splice the wires onto your signal light wires. But to retain an OEM-style installation within the scope of this guide, I kept the plugs and created complimenting 2-pin male connectors with pigtails.

1. Take two 18-awg T-Taps and attach one onto the GRN/YEL wire of the signal light on your passenger side. Attach the other T-Tap to the GRN/RED wire of the signal light on the driver side:

2. Cut two pieces of 18 awg wires at 2′ a piece and crimp on an 18 awg male quick disconnect at the end of each of the wires.

3. Plug these wires into the T-taps you’ve just attached in step #1.

4. Connect the wires you’ve tapped onto your turn signal wires with the GRN/YEL wire on the side marker wiring harness. For the BLK wire on the side marker light wiring harness, you can simply ground it onto any bolt on the chassis. For this project, I grounded the wire to the fender bolt within the engine bay located closest to the hood hinge secured through a fork terminal connect.

5. Wrap the entire 2′ wire with wire loom, then tape both ends securely with black vinyl electrical tape.

Testing the connections

Once all the connections is verified and tucked away neatly, insert your key and turn the ignition to the II position, then flip on the left and right signals. The side marker lights should blink in synch with either the left or right signal.

Next, press the emergency indicator button. Both side marker lights should blink in synch with your signal lights. Remove your key from the ignition and press the emergency indicator button. Again, the signal lights, including your side marker lights, should all blink in synch.

Once you’ve verified that your installation passes the test, you can wrap up the install and call it a day.

Side marker lights as parking lights

If you want to wire your side marker lights so that they stay on with your parking lights instead of blinking with your turn signal, simply splice the power wire onto your parking light wire instead of the blinker wire. This is the RED/YEL wire coming out of your parking light sockets. If you prefer to wire it this way, be sure to pick up a set of amber LED 168 or 194 wedge bulbs. The OEM set up was not designed to have the side marker lights wired to operate as parking lights. By operating the side marker lights as parking lights with ordinary filament bulb, you will risk overheating the side marker housings and sockets, potentially melting plastic parts and create an inadvertent short. LED bulbs stay cool all the time so it’s more safe and efficient.

Side marker lights that stays on and blinks

Another option is to wire your side marker lights so that they stay on with your parking lights and also blink with your turn signal. To do this, connect the GRN/YEL wire from the side marker light to the RED/YEL wire of your parking light, then connect the BLK wire from the side marker light to the GRN/YEL, GRN/RED wire of the turn signal lights. Remember to use amber LED 168/194 bulb to avoid overheating the side marker housing. A thing to note when wiring this way: your side markers will stay on with your parking lights, but when you signal, it will alternate with your front and rear turn signals instead of blinking in synchronization. That is when your front and rear signals are lit, your side markers will remain off. When your front and rear turn signals are off, your side markers will turn on.

Completed install

When Acura unveiled the facelift for the 2005 RSX, many gave the minor design changes two thumbs up and a nod of approval. However, many became disappointed to learn that only 1 lens on the taillight lights up at night. This article guides you with great details on how to rewire the taillights so that both the lens on each taillight assembly lights up with your parking lights – akin to the ‘02-’04 models.

1x salvaged wire plug from any Honda/Acura with at least two pigtails (wires with terminal)

You should be able to find most of the electrical parts at your local RadioShack or AutoZone. I found most of mine in my tool shack . A good place to order bulk of electrical component is Mouser, Inc.. Simply a great company, no doubt. For the sockets, wedge bulbs and plugs, you can order it from Delray Acura. Just punch in the provided part numbers and add to cart. So far, I’ve found that Delray offered the most economical price for these parts.

And finally, you need two pigtails to complete the mod. I just salvaged mine from a 4-pin plug with wires from a Civic power window wire harness at a local junkyard. You can order these pigtails from Acura too, but I don’t think it’s worth the $9.00+ per bag of 10 pigtails they are charging (after all, you don’t need 10 pigtails).

I. Working with the taillight plugs and sockets

The first thing you want to do is remove two pigtails from the salvaged plug. To do this, take a small screw driver or probe and pop out the wire retainer on the salvaged plug as follows:

With the retainer removed, take your mini screwdriver or probe and dislodge the wires from its housing. If you have a terminal release tool, even better. This is a bit tricky so take your time not to damage the wire terminal or plug. If you damage the plug in the process, you’ll probably have to saw it in half to remove the pigtail:

This is what a pigtail looks like:

Three other pigtails:

If your pigtail is long enough, i.e. 8.0″ or longer, you can skip the step below and jump right onto attaching the male quick-disconnect at opposite end of the pigtail.

Take the wire stripper and strip the end of the pigtail as shown above. You will connect the end of the pigtail to another strip of wire later.

Cut an 8.0″ strip of wire from your roll of 22 AWG wire and strip both the ends:

With the ends stripped, connect the pigtail to the newly stripped wire with a butt-connector. Simply crimp the butt connector at the middle, securing both wires together:

Or if you want an even more secure connection, you can alternatively solder the stripped ends together and then place a heat-shrinking tube over the soldered area and heat it up to shrink the tubing.

With the 8.0″ wire connected to the pigtail, crimp a male quick disconnect (measuring 22 AWG) at the other end of the 8.0″ wire:

The completed wire set should look something like this:

(The above pic shows a wire set completed with the solder/heat-shrink tube method.)

Next, take the 3-pin socket and look at it from the top where the wedge bulb is inserted. Saw off the tab as depicted:

The reason you need to saw off these two tabs is because they will obstruct the socket from plugging into the taillight compartments securely. At this point, you may optionally use a file and file down the edges from the sawed-off point.

Next, remove the taillight access panel and remove the turn signal socket. Remove the socket / bulb from its plug. The plug should have two wires, GRN/YEL (right side) or GRN/RED (left side) along with a BLK ground wire. Pop off the retainer as you did with the salvaged plug using a probe or a small screwdriver:

Again, using the probe or small screw driver, maneuver both wires out of its retainer:

Next, remove your brake light bulb (outter lens), then remove the socket from its plug and examine the three wires. The black wire is the ground wire, the red/yellow wire is the parking light wire, and the white/black wire is the brake wire:

Using your wirestripper, strip a part of the RED/YEL wire as shown. Use the 22 AWG stripper and strip the wire carefully, you just need to expose the copper wires and that’s it. Be careful NOT to cut the wire:

You can strip any RED/YEL wire from the taillight assembly as they all perform the same function. It is a generally a better idea to strip the RED/YEL wire from your brake lights (outer lens).

Next, take a T-Tap and place it over the stripped portion of the red/yel wire, then snap it shut (you may need to snap it with a pair of plier). Make sure you hear a click to ensure that it is properly secured onto the wire:

With the T-Tap in place, take your wire/pigtail combo and plug the male quick-disconnect into the T-Tap. Cut a piece of wire insulation tube/loom to approximately the same length as the wire/pigtail combo and cover the wire with it:

With all that completed, take the 3-pin plug you’ve ordered and pop up the retainer. Insert the two wires you’ve removed earlier and the pigtail into it: signal, parking light, ground (GRN/RED, RED/YEL, BLK).

Make sure the wires are inserted in the order as pictured below:

One thing you should keep in mind is that the middle wire is always the wire/pigtail wire that’s being tapped to the parking light wire.

Once the wires have been inserted, snap the retainer of the 3-pin plug back into place to secure the wire terminals, then plug the 3-pin plug into the 3-pin socket (with the two sawed off tabs), plug in the wedge bulb and then plug the connector back into your taillight assembly:

Test out your newly rewired taillights by turning on your parking lights. Both circular lens should light up. Flip on the left turn signal with the parking lights on, your left turn signal lens should light up AND blink at the same time. Repeat with the right lens. Next, turn on your emergency blinkers and see if it works without strange flickers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3INToJplEKw&feature=player_embedded

If you passed all the test, you are good to go. If the blinker either blink to fast, doesn’t blink or flickers, then you probably have the wire mixed up when you inserted them into the 3-pin connector. Remove the retainer and start over.

Don’t forget to store the original bulb/socket and plug in a safe place in case you want to revert back to stock:

Basically, repeat the same process for the opposite taillight. The whole mod took me no more than 30 minutes, including clean up.

Be prepared to blow your turn signal fuse if you accidentally cross the ground and signal/parking light wires while inserting them into the plug. So.. make sure your light switch is off and you have a few 10amp Mini fuses handy just in case!

Part #: SP 1477

Allow up to three hours for this DIY.

Before you start, make sure you check the parts list. If any parts are missing, you should contact Injen. Here are the parts and the quantity of each item:

1 Injen Cold Air Intake system

1 2-7/8” x 3” 60 degree elbow

2 m6xm25 bolts (for reservoir tank)

2 fender washers (for reservoir tank)

1 1525 sensor grommet

1 RSX long vibra-mount with M6 flange nut and 1 fender washer

1 20” – 8mm vacuum hose and 1 18” – 17mm vacuum hose

1 3” Injen filter

1 custom roto-molded windshield reservoir tank

I. Installing the cold air intake system

Disconnect the battery (optional step).
Set your transmission to 5th gear before you start. Removing the battery is an optional step. The purpose of this step is to remove the protruding metal bracket from the battery bay for clearance. You can alternatively just bend the bracket downward. Omitting this step will save you approximately 20-30 minutes.

Disconnect and remove the battery. You’ll need to modify a piece of the battery holder to clear room for installing the intake later. Remember to have your stereo security code ready! Once you remove the battery, drill off the extended bracket that is securing two power sockets in place. To remove the socket, locate a pinch clip on each, press down and then slide it out of the bracket. Using a drill and a 4/16 bit, drill off the 2 soft spot welds:

When you’ve completely drilled through the soft spot welds, bend the protruding metal bracket up and down a couple of times to dislodge it:

Remove the bumper and stock air box.

Next, remove your bumper. If you own an 05-06, download my JDM Type S grille installation guide (see signature) for complete removal procedure.

Remove all the vacuum hoses attached to the stock air box. You need pinch clamp clips to release the hoses, which can be difficult. If you have a hard time holding the clips down, use a pair of pliers. Essentially, remove the main large hose from the brake booster port, and then remove the smaller hose from the crank case port. Finally, remove the air temperature sensor and set it aside. You are disconnecting 2 hoses and 1 sensor from the main stock air box setup.

Next, remove the main air box. Untighten the clamp on the air tube connecting from the air box to the throttle body and then remove the air tube. Remove the air box by unbolting three 10mm bolts. Two of these bolts are easily accessible, the 3rd one you will need to remove a rubber grommet to access:

With all three bolts removed, carefully lift the air box up and maneuver it out of its bay; dislodging it from the stock air inlet tube. Next, remove the stock air inlet tube by unbolting a 10mm bolt located on the radiator frame.

The stock box removed:

The engine bay without the stock air box: