Posts Tagged ‘hole’

EDM/UKDM DC2 rear fog light installed on a 2005 Acura RSX

I decided to install the rear fog light because I drive through the desert and central California quite often. Depending on the time of the year, the central coast get insanely foggy (especially during the summer). I’ve almost rear ended a silver Miata because the fog was so dense up north. Since I’m traveling further past the central coast in 1 week (past Klamath, CA), and it is currently rainy and foggy season in that region, this mod was executed at just the right time.

To kick the mod up a notch, I’ve added a rear fog light indicator light; basically adding an additional SMD LED into the cavity of the gauge cluster where the high beam LED sits. When I have my rear fog lights on, the high beam indicator will light up yellow, wired so that the rear fog light can only be turned on if the head lights are turned on (just like OEM front fog lights). The whole setup is controlled using gslowr’s ‘07-’08 Honda Fit Sport combination switch DIY guide:

A modified after market OEM-style fog light wiring harness as the main wiring harness:

An extra rear license plate light sub-wire with male and female bullet terminals crimped on and routed through the 28mm hole plug on the rear firewall for an extra clean, OEM-style install:

Complete DIY guide will be available after January 4th. I’ll be away for the holiday, but will continue to post trip-related entries until then.

Here’s a video of the rear fog light in operation:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p1azGa9oBg&feature=player_embedded

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EDM/UKDM DC2 rear fog light installation guide

1x Acura RSX license plate light sub-wire, part #: 32113-S6M-A00

1x EDM spec ‘94-’01 Honda Integra rear fog light, part #: 34450-SV2-G01

1x EDM spec ‘94-’01 Honda Integra rear fog light inner garnish, part #: 71511-ST7-G00

1x EDM spec ‘94-’01 Honda Integra rear fog light outer trim, part #: 71512-ST7-G00

2x Honda 0.50 female pigtails (shown taken from OEM side marker connector).
Part #: 04320-SP0-X10, sold in a bag of 10 pcs.

1x After market OEM-style fog light wiring harness (or 4-pin 30A Bosch style relay with pig tails and 10A blade fuse)

1x 2-pin male connector w/pigtails (part #: 04321-ST5-305, sold in a bag of 5 pcs; male pigtails part #: 04320-SP0-G00, sold in bag of 10 pcs)

1x Rotary tool w/cut-off wheel and grinder/sanding bit

1x 30′ roll of 16 awg wire

1x roll of painter’s masking tape

1x Sharpie marker or ball point pen

1x Wire stripper / cutter

6x Male & female 16 awg quick disconnects (3 of each)

2x Male & female 14-16 awg bullet terminals (1 of each)

1x 14-16 awg quick splice connector

1x roll of wire loom

1x roll of vinyl electrical tape

Templating and cutting your rear bumper

1. To create the template which you’ll use to cut the mounting hole on your rear bumper, we’ll use the outer trim as a reference. This is the piece where the actual rear fog light sits in and is screwed onto. Trace the lip of the trim on a piece of paper. Next, cut 1/4″ inside and along the line you’ve just traced:

2. Take the rear fog light outer trim and test fit it into your template. You may need to make a few changes to ensure a snug fit. Once you’ve determined that the template is good, place it on the section of your rear bumper where you would like to mount the rear fog light and tape the top part of the template onto the rear bumper:

You can use the preceding as a general guide to mount the rear fog light on your ‘05-’06 RSX. The ‘02-’04 RSX models has a different rear bumper so if you’re installing it on an earlier RSX model, you may have to modify the measurements to suit your application.

3. Lift up the template (still held onto the rear bumper with tape) and apply a liberal amount of painter’s masking tape over the entire area of the rear bumper where you want to mount the rear fog light. Next, take a pen or a Sharpie and trace over the template cutout onto the taped surface of the rear bumper:

Stand back and examine the template affixed to your rear bumper. If you are satisfied with the location and alignment, it’s ready to begin cutting.

4. It is imperative that you wear safety goggles. DO NOT EVEN ATTEMPT TO CUT IF YOU DO NOT HAVE SAFETY GOGGLES ON! Start by cutting inside the traced line using a Dremel, AllTrade or similar rotary cutting tool equipped with a cut-off disc:

Be ready to use up to 5 or more fiberglass cut-off discs for the cutting (less if you use cut-off discs designed to cut through metal). If you don’t change them when they are overheated or worn, the disc will break and fly at you. It is important that you wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from the flying debris. Another thing to note is the melted plastic flakes flying off the cutting job is also very hot. I recommend wearing a sweater to avoid minute-burns. Once the base pattern is cut, you can switch the bit to a grinding to level out the curved corners:

Finish with a sanding disc for a clean presentation. Test fit the outer trim. If the hole is too small, you can use a grinder bit and gradually widen up the hole. REMEMBER: It’s always a good idea to start by cutting a smaller hole – you can always widen it up later if it’s too small. If you cut an oversized hole from the start, it could leave to mounting problems. The key point is to take your time and pace yourself. It took me about 1 hour to perfect the hole.

5. Remove the tailgate panel by pulling it upward with slight force. It’s secured onto the rear frame with 4 plug clips:

6. Remove your rear bumper.

Mounting the rear fog light

1. Insert the rear fog light outer trim into the hole you’ve just cut:

2. Pair up the inner garnish from the inner side of your rear bumper with the rear fog light outer trim you’ve just inserted. Align the 3 notches and key slot, then press the two pieces together until they snap into place to ensure a secure mount. If you’re installing on the left side, the notch key should be on the lower left corner:

3. Finally, insert the rear fog lamp into the outer trim and secure the lamp into the housing with two screws. Alternatively, you can use two nuts and bolts in place of the screw. You’ll mount the nut from the inside of the rear bumper. This will prevent the rear fog light from being easily removed:

If you are going to use nuts and bolts, remove the two original spring clips from the inner garnish.The bolts used were M5 .7, 50 threads, the nuts used were M5 .8 and the washers used were M5:

For extra security, you may use two nuts per bolt instead of one. The drawback is you’ll have to remove the rear bumper every time you need to change the bulb (unlikely), but the security and peace of mind is well worth the extra effort.

4. This is what it should look like so far with the rear fog light mounted onto the rear bumper:

Flush mount:

Making the connections

The reason why we’re using an after market OEM-style fog light wiring harness is because it will simplify the installation. Plus everything you need is already part of the harness; no need to purchase additional parts. All you need to do is rearrange a few terminal joints and make a few wire splices to lengthen the power wire. For folks that had to replace OEM fog lights (as I did) with an after market set due to cracked lens caused from road debris, this is a prime opportunity to use the after market fog light wire harness if you happen to save it. For those that do not have an after market wiring harness, follow the circuit diagram below and create your own harness using a few cuts of 16 awg wire, a 10A fuse and a 4-pin Bosch relay (with pigtail).

1. Remove the steering column covering by removing 3 Philips screw on the lower cover and separating the top cover from the bottom cover.

2. Remove two small Philips screws that is securing the combination switch onto the steering column:

3. With gentle force, push the combination switch to the left and out. You may need to pull it out with your hands or push it out with a screw driver.

4. Unplug the combination switch 16-pin plug:

5. Attach a female or male quick disconnect onto each of the two pigtail you’ve acquired. I used one female and one male quick disconnect to distinguish the connections:

6. Insert the two pigtails into the terminals on the plug as shown. Make sure they are in the correct orientation before insertion. Incorrect orientation can result in a damaged pigtail or plug, or both! If you are not sure, just look at the adjacent pigtail.

This is what the inserted pigtails will look like, note the correct location:

7. Crimp a quick connect to the positive wire (usually a RED/YEL wire) from the after market wiring harness then connect it to one of the pigtails that was inserted into the 16-pin combination switch plug on step #6. It doesn’t matter which one, but take note of the pigtail you actually make the connection with. This wire is directly connected to pin #86 (or 85) of the fog light relay.

>Take the remaining pigtail (the one that is not connected to the RED/YEL wire on step #7) you’ve inserted and splice it with the BLU/RED wire (pin #4 on the plug). You can use a T-Tap for the splicing.

The pin where the BLU/RED wire is plugged into becomes active when you turn your head lights on. If your Fit fog light switch is in the “ON” position while your head lights are on, the 12v from the BLU/RED wire will trigger the coil in the fog light relay, completing the circuit between pin 30 and pin 87. Alternatively, you can tap this wire into the IGN (ignition) wire to use as a trigger, but to remain OEM-style, this is what we’ll do for the guide.

8. Next, look for a thick WHT/RED wire in the after market fog light harness; it may simply be RED or a WHT wire color depending on the harness you use. This wire should be approximately 12-14 awg thick connected to one blade of a 30a blade fuse while another thinner wire, about 16 awg thick, is connected to the other blade of the same fuse. The end of the thicker WHT/RED wire will terminate in a brown 1-pin female plug. If you have OEM or after market OEM-style fog lights installed, cut off the brown plug and cap off the wire with an end-terminal. Then splice this wire to the OEM fog light wire power wire in your under dash fuse box with a quick splice tap.

Since the wire will be powering a 21w bayonet bulb instead of two 55w H11 bulbs, replace the 30a fuse in the fuse holder with a 10a fuse.

9. Ground the BLK wire from the after market fog light harness.

10. The main wiring connection is complete. You may want to make temporary connections to the rear fog lamp to ensure that the connections you’ve made in the preceding steps work before completing the installation:

To do this, ground the black wire from the rear fog lamp and connect the power wire to the BLU (or BLU/RED) wire from the after market fog light harness – the wire that is directly connected to pin 87 of the fog light relay. You may want to make the temporary connections with a pair of test leads. Note: If using test leads, connect the positive wire first and be extremely careful not to accidentally short out the positive clamp by inadvertently grounding it to any metallic surface! This can damage your test leads, your rear fog light, your combination switch and start a fire. Turn on your head lights, then turn on the fog light control on the Fit switch. If connections are correct, your rear fog lamp should light up. Turn off your head lights while leaving the fog light control on the Fit switch in the “ON” position. The rear fog lamp should turn off.

11a. Cut off the 2-pin brown female connector on the license plate sub-wire and crimp the corresponding bullet terminals to the wires (i.e. female bullet terminal to the RED/YEL wire and male bullet terminal to the BLK wire):

This will plug right into the rear fog light without any modification done to the rear fog light itself.

11b. Locate the 28mm hole plug on the left side of the rear firewall. If you want to install the fog light to the right side of the bumper, then use the 28mm hole plug on the right hand side, near the exhaust:

You don’t have to remove it. What you want to do is take a 10mm drill bit and drill through the center of the plug. If the hole is too small, carefully grind the hole to widen it up. You want to make the hole just big enough to snugly fit the rear license plate light sub-wire:

11c. Next, insert the bullet disconnect end of the license plate light sub-wire through the hole drilled from step 11b from the cargo:

Pull the bullet disconnect through the hole drilled onto the 28mm hole plug until the grommet part of it squeezes through. Continue pulling until it will not go further:

12. Take the BLU (or BLU/RED) fog light power extension wire from the after market fog light harness and cut it in half at the center. Attach approximately 10 feet of 16 awg wire between the cut wires. This will extend the wire to about 15 feet in length. Wrap up the newly extended wire with additional wire loom and tape it up:

13. Take the female brown plug from the wire you’ve extended in step 11 and plug it into the BLU wire that’s trailing from the fog light relay.

14. Route the extension wire through the driver side door sill,

through the driver side rear quarter panel (you may want to remove the speaker grill for easy access to the wire),

through the driver side rear cargo panel,

and finally into the tailgate panel which you’ve removed earlier.

15. This step is entirely optional. You can splice the BLU (or BLU/RED) extension wire with the RED/YEL wire from the license plate light sub-wire for a direct connection, and ground the BLK wire to any metallics surface. Or to keep it OEM-style, cut off the brown plug at the end of the BLU (or BLU/RED) extension wire. Attach a male 0.50 Honda pigtail (part #: 04320-SP0-G00) onto the cut wire. Take another male pigtail and splice approximately 1.5 feet of 16 awg wire to the end of it (this will be the ground wire).

Take a 2-pin male connector (part #: 04321-ST5-305) and align it with the license plate sub-wire 2-pin female connector and note the position of the RED/YEL and BLK wire (i.e. BLU aligns with RED/YEL and BLK with BLK):

Insert the pigtails into the male 2-pin connector accordingly:

then plug the license plate light sub-wire into this newly created 2-pin male plug:

Connect a fork or ring terminal connect to the end of the BLK wire then ground it to the factory tailgate ground bolt. Wrap the wires in wire loom and tape the looms with black vinyl electrical tape for a clean OEM appearance:

This is how the completed connection should look like at the rear bumper end. Clean and OEM looking. Test the rear fog light one last time, then make the final connections and reinstall your rear bumper:

Plug the bullet terminals from the rear fog light into the corresponding bullet terminals on the license plate light sub-wire, then cover the connectors with a 3 inch piece of wire loom. Tape up the wire loom securely with vinyl electrical tape:

This step is important because the rear wheels kick up a lot of gunk from the road and tosses it into the cavity of the rear bumper. If it rains, water picked up from the rear wheels can cause an unwanted short if the wires are not weatherproofed thoroughly. This is another reason why all electrical connections need to be fused and relayed.

To give you an idea of how far dirt and gunk gets kicked up, look at the debris stuck onto the inside of the rear bumper and how close the rear fog light is to the debris:

Rear bumper reinstalled with rear fog light mounted and wired, ready for use:

Completed install

Some shots of the rear fog light installed and operating:


Are rear fog lights effective?

Yes, especially when you drive in an area with a lot of fog, rain or snow. Below are several pictures of my RSX on Briceland Thorn Road in Garberville/Shelter Cove/Whitethorn, CA; ~150 feet away with thick fog (according to my Garmin hand-held GPS).

Here’s a photo taken with just the parking lights on:


Here’s another photo with the rear fog light on:

Since I drive through the desert and through the coastal fogs from central to northern California quite often, this is a highly functional and beneficial mod.

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Honda OEM side marker lights install guide (with video on the cutting process)

1x touch-up paint

1x Philips screw driver

1x Lombard0’s side marker template, download it HERE

1x 3′ of string  (OPTIONAL)

Preparing the template

Lombard0’s template contains the template for both the driver side and passenger side fender. Simply cut the template in half, at the center and use them accordingly.

1. Mask off the fender you’ll be working on with painter’s masking tape. For this guide, we’ll start with the passenger side.

2. Print out Lombard0’s template and carefully cut out the side marker template.

3. OPTIONAL: Take a 3′ of string and align it so that it’s parallel with the accent mark on the door, then tape up the string in place. This will be your guide to aligning Lombard0’s template correctly. If you are in a well lit area and are confident, you can simply use just your eyes to align the template with the accent line.

4. Take Lombard0’s template and align it with the fender line and accent line:

5. Carefully trace the side marker cut-out from the template onto the masked surface of your fender:

6. Double check to make sure the tracing is clear and precise, then remove the string and template from the fender.

7. Chances are, your side marker lights did not include bulbs. Twist the connector off the side marker light and insert a 194/168 amber wedge bulb into the socket. Set the connector and harness aside.

8. Install a metal cut-off disc on your rotary tool, put on your safety goggles and proceed to the next step.

9. Partially remove the inner fender lining by removing these two self-tapping screws:

Cutting the fender

1. Begin cutting the inner rectangle from the side marker cut-out as illustrated with your rotary tool set at high speed:

Take your time to ensure that the cut is precise. When cutting, you want to cut just a bit INSIDE of the traced line. If the hole you’ve cut is too small, you can always widen it up later. If you cut the hole too wide from the start, it can lead to mounting problems.

2. Next, cut out the left and right notches at medium speed.

Right notch cut:

Left notch cut:

3. Carefully grind out the rounded corners by slowly using the cut-off wheel set at medium speed in a stroking motion.

4. The untuned side marker mounting hole:

If you want, you can attach a sanding bit to your rotary tool and sand off the edges of the hole. If not, test fit the side marker light to make sure that it fits snug into the hole. Do not mount the side marker light just yet, simply place it into the hole.

Make sure to insert the side marker light in the correct orientation. You may have to make several widening and smoothing attempts before you can mount the side marker lights securely. Generally, the entire cutting process, including widening and smoothing the hole takes approximately 25 minutes per fender.

5. If the hole is too small, widen it up before continuing. Once you’ve confirmed the hole you’ve just cut compliments the side marker, apply a coat of touch up paint along the exposed metal edge.

Then wait an hour for the paint to dry. At this point, you can start on the opposite fender.

Here’s a video of the cutting process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUbF_zXRgYA&feature=player_embedded
6. Once the touch-up paint dries completely, partially remove your inner fender liner.

7. Snap the side marker light (with wiring harness disconnected) in place into the mounting hole, then reach your hand behind the fender and squeeze the pinch tab on the side marker light while pulling it in from the inside and using your other hand to push it in from the outside. You can use a small flathead screwdriver to push in the pinch tab instead.The side marker light should snap into place:


(if you still have masking tape on your fender, now is the time to peel them off)

8. Reach behind the fender and plug the light socket from the wiring harness into the side marker light.

If you have a 2002-2004 RSX:

  • Route the 2-pin plug end of the wire through the large hole on the vehicle’s chassis, then plug rubber grommet into the large hole on the chassis frame. Plug the translucent wire tie clip onto into the smaller hole on the chassis that’s about 6″ apart and adjacent from the larger grommet hole.

If you have a 2005-2006 RSX:

  • The holes described in the preceding steps for the 2002-2004 models are occupied by a similar harness:

    Simply pull the wiring harness’ 2-pin plug outside of the fender through the openings near the hood hinge.

And the 2-pin plug should extend into the engine bay as follow:


(shown with OPTIONAL 2-pin male connector w/pigtails)

Making the connections

You can cut off the 2-pin plugs from the side marker and directly splice the wires onto your signal light wires. But to retain an OEM-style installation within the scope of this guide, I kept the plugs and created complimenting 2-pin male connectors with pigtails.

1. Take two 18-awg T-Taps and attach one onto the GRN/YEL wire of the signal light on your passenger side. Attach the other T-Tap to the GRN/RED wire of the signal light on the driver side:

2. Cut two pieces of 18 awg wires at 2′ a piece and crimp on an 18 awg male quick disconnect at the end of each of the wires.

3. Plug these wires into the T-taps you’ve just attached in step #1.

4. Connect the wires you’ve tapped onto your turn signal wires with the GRN/YEL wire on the side marker wiring harness. For the BLK wire on the side marker light wiring harness, you can simply ground it onto any bolt on the chassis. For this project, I grounded the wire to the fender bolt within the engine bay located closest to the hood hinge secured through a fork terminal connect.

5. Wrap the entire 2′ wire with wire loom, then tape both ends securely with black vinyl electrical tape.

Testing the connections

Once all the connections is verified and tucked away neatly, insert your key and turn the ignition to the II position, then flip on the left and right signals. The side marker lights should blink in synch with either the left or right signal.

Next, press the emergency indicator button. Both side marker lights should blink in synch with your signal lights. Remove your key from the ignition and press the emergency indicator button. Again, the signal lights, including your side marker lights, should all blink in synch.

Once you’ve verified that your installation passes the test, you can wrap up the install and call it a day.

Side marker lights as parking lights

If you want to wire your side marker lights so that they stay on with your parking lights instead of blinking with your turn signal, simply splice the power wire onto your parking light wire instead of the blinker wire. This is the RED/YEL wire coming out of your parking light sockets. If you prefer to wire it this way, be sure to pick up a set of amber LED 168 or 194 wedge bulbs. The OEM set up was not designed to have the side marker lights wired to operate as parking lights. By operating the side marker lights as parking lights with ordinary filament bulb, you will risk overheating the side marker housings and sockets, potentially melting plastic parts and create an inadvertent short. LED bulbs stay cool all the time so it’s more safe and efficient.

Side marker lights that stays on and blinks

Another option is to wire your side marker lights so that they stay on with your parking lights and also blink with your turn signal. To do this, connect the GRN/YEL wire from the side marker light to the RED/YEL wire of your parking light, then connect the BLK wire from the side marker light to the GRN/YEL, GRN/RED wire of the turn signal lights. Remember to use amber LED 168/194 bulb to avoid overheating the side marker housing. A thing to note when wiring this way: your side markers will stay on with your parking lights, but when you signal, it will alternate with your front and rear turn signals instead of blinking in synchronization. That is when your front and rear signals are lit, your side markers will remain off. When your front and rear turn signals are off, your side markers will turn on.

Completed install

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