How to fix cracks & bumps & also prime and paint

So… Here I am, it’s been a while since I fixed all dents, scratches and bumps. I had primed the car and left it there for a while, 1 reason is so that it would settle… second was cause I’ve had experience where you think everything is perfect but under the right lighting you’ll notice things here and there… as it turned out, I did notice a few places that weren’t sanded as well as others and of course I went over it and fixed it… so time for paint.

Before painting the car I gave it a simple wash with soap and water, nothing special. Pulled it into the garage half length and proceeded to tape off, once again using dollar store plastic and newspaper for under the fenders and whatnot.

Prior to painting, I obviously taped off all areas where i wanted to keep the bumper black. I also placed newspaper over the rad and A/C unit so that no paint would subsequently enter them.

PLEASE NOTE: This is the mostttttttttttttttt boring and tedious part of the entire procedure. Just like painting a home, preparation accounts for about 75% of the job, do it well so you don’t kick yourself later.

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Taping done. Time to paint. I purchased 4 cans of spray paint from NAPA Auto Parts Store @ $30.00 per and also 4 cans of clearcoat @ $18.00 per.

Paint = NAPA Custom Colour (specifically, my color code was) YR525M-4 [Titanium Metallic]
Clearcoat = DuPont Acrylic Clear A-7480S (Acrylic Trim and Jamb Clear)

You can find your colour code on the inside door jamb of your driver’s side.

Before a single drop of paint touches your car, wipe it down with a tack cloth, CT has em for about $1.50.
This is a MUST, microfibre cloths will not do the trick.

WEAR A MASK… and not the cheap dust ones, a good chemical one (about $45.00 I think) and btw…. if you can smell paint through the mask, its garbage.. time for new filters

Follow directions on cans.. I tested my product by spraying my gas door. This allowed me to gauge optimal distances, drying times, finishing look and colour matching. Glad I did this as the first time I did… my clearcoat didnt come out as shiny and didnt feel as smooth as expected. Took it off and brought it into the store, they suggested I get closer while spraying and that should solve the problem… sure enough it did.

I 100% Recommend you test this product before applying.

I ended up painting both fenders though I only needed to do one… reason for this was to achieve a seamless colour blend, from bumper to hood to fender.

Bumper, and fender were pretty simple, due to the fact that I had a directly straight spraying angle.

How to spray Hood.
The hood is a tricky part of the car to spray because youve got to place the can at an angle to get coverage.

DANGER While holding the can at an angle, the paint will collect a bit at the edges of the can (in my case, the spray gun topper), if it does start to collect, this WILL lead to little drips on your new paint.
To avoid this, wear something you dont care about and after every straight line spray you make, wipe the can.
I had to learn this the hard way.

Rather than spraying from left to right as you would have with the bumper and fenders, spray up and down, holding the can accordingly. IE while spraying up and down, hold the can horizontally.

Anyways enough talking… Behold!

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So… As you can see, though I waited a while before applying paint, trying to smooth everything out and get an exact contour it wasn’t perfect, though better than it was, and I’m pleased. I dont do this for a living so as a first timer I think I did well.

You may notice some places where it looked like a drop of paint may have fallen… IT DID, thats why Ive given you the warning, learned that wiping trick a bit too late, but hey, next time I guess.

There are a few parts that require more clearcoat, I simply ran out. So gauge how much you’ll need for your project from my mistakes.

NOTE: After Clearcoat allow your car time to dry… you can use it and all, but I do not suggest washing it it, nor allowing too much rain to hit for atleast a month. The clearcoat is thin, VERY thin. IE, though the car has settled for a few days, if I were to simply press my nail into the Finish it would leave a mark, it needs a great deal of time to dry and cure properly as opposed to manufacturing clearcoat.

Anyways, if you have any hopes of doing something like this I hope this thread helps you. Also if youve got anymore questions, give me a shout, I’d be glad to help.


PS, Total cost of job…

fixing dents with Bondo, filling is small holes with glazing putty, sanding, priming, sanding, and painting + miscellaneous costs.


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